In point of fact, Tetuan boasts of being the cradle of more wealthy
Jewish families than any other town in the world; and among the
practical concessions enjoyed by them, there now appears to be no
difficulty in the way of Jews leaving the empire and returning
to it, and frequent intercourse is carried on between the city
and Europe by the way of Ceuta. The ceremonial observances of the
Mosaic law are strictly adhered to. The first question put to us
on our arrival was to know whether we had with us leavened bread,
as such could not be admitted to the house during the feast of the
Passover; and during our stay we were given cakes, some of plain
flour, others prepared with orange juice.
The houses are quite on the same plan as those of the Moors, or
in other words they merely differ in architectural detail from
the ancient type that is preserved for us in the smaller houses of
Pompeii. A single court (atrium) has several small rooms or closets
used for kitchen, offices, and sleeping place for servants, and
one large apartment, the chief living room of the family, filling
one side. This remains open to the court by day, but is closed at
night by a curtain. On the upper floor a gallery surrounds the court,
and into this open upper rooms of moderate size. In Nahum’s house
a second floor above the first had been added, but this appeared
to be an unusual arrangement. On our arrival we had been struck by
the superior neatness and cleanliness of the Jewish, as compared to
the Moorish, quarter, and the same remark applied to their persons.
No European traders appear to have settled at Tetuan, and such
trade as it possesses is in the hands of the Jews. Oranges, and
a sort of brandy, called Mahaya, distilled from the grape, are
the chief exports. The coarse pottery made here is much the same
as that produced in Algeria and throughout Western Marocco. Rude
geometrical patterns in ill-defined blue and green tints are usually
enriched by round spots of bright red, laid on with something like
sealing-wax over the glazing, and easily removed with spirit. The
only thing deserving notice as representing art-manufacture is the
gold embroidery, usually worked on silk or velvet. This is used for
curtains or hangings by some wealthy Moors, and for personal wear by
the Jewish women and children. At this festival season the younger
children frequently appeared with caps or diadems richly embroidered;
but the women more often wear a light silk handkerchief, with the
fringe hanging freely, but kept in its place by a fillet of black or
red velvet worked in gold, and forming a very ornamental head-dress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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