The next matter requiring attention was our costume. It was
foreseen that during some part of our journey, at least, it might
be expedient to adopt the native dress, or such an approximation to
it as would prevent our attracting notice from afar as strange and
outlandish creatures. After due deliberation, the _haïk_ was finally
rejected. This is the ordinary outer garment of natives of the upper
class. An ample robe of fine white woollen stuff is a graceful and
picturesque garment, especially on those who know how to group its
folds about the person; but it is absolutely incompatible with the
free use of the limbs, and more especially for botanists, whose
pursuit brings them into frequent contact with the numberless spiny
plants of this region. The unsightly _jellabia_, a blouse of rough
white woollen stuff, with the addition of a hood that may be drawn
over the head, was adopted, and was not found very inconvenient.
Anticipating unavoidable exposure to a nearly vertical sun, we
had provided ourselves with the grey pith ventilating helmets so
commonly used by Englishmen in the tropics. It was found that by
winding round one of these a moderate strip of the usual material
for turbans, it might be made to pass muster at a distance. But for
head-gear on important occasions the turban was indispensable. The
material, a broad band of light muslin, about thirteen or fourteen
yards in length, is supplied from England, but the art of winding
it round the head requires long practice, and we always resorted
to the aid of one of our attendants. It certainly gives protection
against a hot sun; but it is never quite convenient to a European
of active habits, who finds it hard to acquire the orthodox gravity
of Oriental demeanour, and is sadly apt to disturb the folds of
the turban by some abrupt movement.
There was one article of dress as to which no compromise was
possible. The slippers down at heel that are commonly used by all
classes of natives, and even the red or yellow loose boots that are
sometimes worn on a journey, were equally unsuited to our habits
and pursuits, and we held fast to our accustomed foot-covering.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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