In the course of the day we visited the extensive stores of
Messrs. E. Bonnet & Co., who export large quantities of olive oil
from the neighbouring provinces. By increased care in the preparation
and subsequent purification of the oil, its quality has been much
improved. The cultivation of the vine has of late rapidly increased,
and wine of tolerable quality has taken a place among the products
which Marocco supplies to England.
Notwithstanding all that we had heard of the excellence of the
climate, we had to confess that at this season Mogador is not a
paradise for the botanist. The NNE. winds come saturated with vapour,
and charged with minute particles of salt from the breaking of the
Atlantic waves on the reefs near the town; and, as the temperature
of the land is scarcely higher than that of the sea, the air has
little or no drying effect on paper and plants. The consequence was
that Mr. Carstensen’s kitchen was used both by day and night to
save our specimens from destruction by damp.
As our interpreter, besides the cook and one or two more of our
retinue, were Jews, it was decided that, in order to spare their
feelings and those of the Jewish community in Mogador in respect
to the Sabbath, we should despatch them along with our heavy
baggage on April 28, while we should follow on the succeeding day
to the spot where they were to await us. Later in the day, after
completing the arrangements for our journey, we went by invitation
to dine with the Governor. We found that our host had had a table
prepared with chairs for Mrs. Carstensen, who with two European
ladies graced the entertainment. Beside them a carpet was spread
for Mr. Carstensen and our party; while the Governor himself, with
three native functionaries, sat in their usual fashion, cross-legged,
on another carpet several yards distant. The first preliminary was
the washing of fingers. One attendant bore water, another a brass
bowl or basin, and a third presented to each in turn an embroidered
towel. This process is always repeated at the close of dinner,
and is common to all classes in the country. The feast then began,
as every well-ordered Moorish banquet must do, by green tea. Three
cups, carefully prepared in the presence of the guests, in a silver
teapot half filled with sugar, were handed in succession to each,
and then fresh tea, with mint leaves added, is again prepared,
and of this decoction the natives usually take one or two cups
more. The serious part of the repast then followed. A large dish
of coarse earthenware, covered with a conical cap of fine straw,
twice the size of a beehive, is laid on a low wooden frame in the
centre of the circle of guests. On the present occasion duplicate
dishes were prepared for us, and for the Governor and his native
friends. When the cover was removed, we were introduced to the
national dish which was destined to be our frequent acquaintance
during our journey in the South. The basis of _keskossou_ is coarse
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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