Struggling against sleep, we diligently worked at our plants till
long past midnight, and then, at length, sought rest after our
first day’s journey in South Marocco. On the morning of April
30, we were up betimes, and had an opportunity of viewing the
_kasbah_. It is a large pile of building, enclosed by a high wall,
within which there is space for great numbers of horses, camels,
and domestic animals of all kinds, with dwellings for the numerous
retainers and rooms for guests, all separate from the central block
which forms the residence of the great man, his family, and personal
attendants. Except that it is mainly built of _tapia_, or blocks of
mud, rammed into square moulds and hardened in the sun, this and
other similar buildings in Marocco differ little from the castles
which the semibarbarous feudal chiefs inhabited throughout a great
part of Europe in the so-called ages of chivalry, and down to the
beginning of the last century. A more extended acquaintance with
the country afterwards showed further points of comparison. There
is not one of these _kasbahs_ that has not been the scene of
atrocious deeds of cruelty and treachery, such as we find in the
records of most of our mediæval strongholds. When we shudder at
tales of Moorish atrocities we are apt to forget that they merely
disclose an anachronism, no way surprising in a country that has
stood altogether aloof from the influences that have brought Europe
to a condition of relative civilisation.
The _kasbah_ of Shedma is well placed, on nearly flat ground, at the
summit of one of the highest of the undulating hills that intervene
between the coast and the great plain of Marocco, standing, by our
measurements, 1,430 feet (436 mètres) above the sea level. The view
over the gently heaving surface of the lower hills to the south was
very pleasing. The slopes covered with short herbage, the green
now beginning to turn brown and yellow, are studded with trees,
chiefly Argan, olive, and fig, sometimes in clumps, sometimes dotted
over the surface. Close to us, adjoining the gate of the _kasbah_,
were several very fine Argan trees just coming into flower.
We were rather late in this morning’s start, and it was near 9
A.M. when, after the tents and luggage were packed, we got under
way, accompanied by our host of last night, the Governor’s son,
who volunteered to show us his father’s garden, of which he was
evidently proud. We rode down the hill, and soon reached a place
called the ‘Tuesday Market’ (Souk el Tleta), beside which we were
to inspect the first example we met of Moorish horticulture. The
enclosed space, about an acre in extent, was divided into oblong
beds, in which the only cultivated flowers were roses and marigolds,
growing amidst an abundant growth of weeds. Along with these we
noticed several beds of mint, which is in constant requisition for
mixing with green tea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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