We soon left behind us the irrigated ground, and entered on a
barren region, less absolutely sterile than that of the preceding
day’s journey, and having a more varied vegetation. Blocks of black
volcanic rock were more frequent, and of larger size, indicating that
we were nearer to the place of their origin, wherever that may be. In
some spots _Artemisia Herba alba_ was the predominant plant, but we
met several new species not before seen. One of the most curious of
these is a white-flowered _Picris_ (_P. albida_), afterwards seen at
intervals in the low country, whose ligules wither so rapidly that
we failed to secure any satisfactory specimens. Without becoming
hilly, the surface lay in slight heaving undulations, the upward
slope being always longest towards the east; and the same remark
applied throughout the day’s ride. In about three hours we reached
Aïn Beida, where a copious spring of excellent water fertilises a
tract of about a square mile. We turned aside from our track to halt
beneath a very fine pistachio tree,[3] fully forty feet high and
two feet in diameter. The sun was very hot, though the temperature
of the air was not more than 80° Fahr., and we were assured that
our halting place for the night was only four hours’ distant; and
so it happened that between luncheon, and rest, and short excursions
into the blazing sunshine to botanise in the surrounding corn-fields,
we did not resume our journey until 3.20 P.M. The baggage train as
usual had gone on ahead; and as the evening light was fading fast,
about 7.20 P.M., when we expected to be near our night quarters,
some inquiry from our escort revealed two disagreeable facts: first,
that we were still nearly two hours’ ride from Misra ben Kara;
and secondly, that the baggage train had taken a different road. It
is not surprising that such intelligence coming suddenly on three
hungry and tired Englishmen, with the further prospect of passing
the night without food or shelter, led to a vehement row, in which
strong, if not intelligible language was discharged at the head of
the worthy Kaïd El Hadj, the commander of our escort. The whole
affair had probably arisen from some misunderstanding; but it was
settled by sending two of the escort to ride at full gallop after
the missing baggage train, while we jogged on sad and silent towards
our destined quarters for the night. Being pressed for time, we had
abstained from botanising by the way from Aïn Beida; but at one
place we stopped to gather some extraordinarily fine specimens of
_Phelipæa lutea_, which caught our eyes in the failing light. This
is the king of the broomrape tribe; the stems stood four or five
feet high, with sceptre-like spikes of large yellow flowers, nearly
two feet long, but it was quite too dark to ascertain on what plant
this curious parasite had attached itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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