_2nd_. The first town after leaving St. Lorenzo was Aquapendente, a small and very ancient place, romantically situated in a rocky ravine. Between this town and Radicofani we left the Papal territories, and entered Tuscany. Radicofani is a small and very old town, on the brow of a steep hill, which is surmounted by an ancient ruined castle. The change in the Italian pronunciation almost instantly strikes the ear; for here a guttural sound is always predominant. The dress of the peasants also seems to have changed with the change of country; instead of the white and stiffly-starched handkerchiefs of the Roman females, laid in a square upon the head, and falling down the back, we now meet women with pretty black turbans, which give them a much more picturesque appearance; many of them also wear men's hats, only adding one or more black feathers as ornament. In this neighbourhood grows the famous wine of Monte-pelluciano, called by Redi, _Il re dei vini_. It was not, however, at all to my taste, for it seemed to me a strong, rough, red wine. The green-jacketed postilions of the Pope have disappeared, and in their place we met with red jackets, turned up with black. Having dined at Radicofani, we drove on through a hilly and barren country to La Scala, a lone house, where the vetturini stop for the night. _3rd._ We quitted La Scala early, and passing through the same hilly and uninteresting country, arrived and dined at Buonconvento, a small and rather more modern town than any we have yet seen. After dinner we went on to Sienna, and the country became rather more interesting, being now and then diversified with country houses and villas. The roads are excellent, and very well kept. Sienna lies very high, and is seen from a considerable distance, especially two of its towers; one of them very lofty and slender, and the other streaked alternately with black and white lines, just like a Prussian boundary-post. We entered the town by a spacious old brick gateway, and driving through a long and wide street, paved with broad flagstones, arrived at the _Aquila Nera_, a very good inn. With the exception of the chief street, the others seem narrow and dark. Sienna is remarkable for the pure Tuscan which the inhabitants speak, as a proof of which they relate the following anecdote:--A preacher of some celebrity being on the road to Sienna, to edify its inhabitants with an oration, met a peasant girl on the road, and asked her how far distant he was from the town? She replied to him-- "Sbarcate il fiume, salite il monte, Avrete Sienna in fronte."