Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
_13th._ We quitted Chiavari this morning for Genoa. The road is
beautiful and romantic, running for miles along the side of a mountain,
and hanging perpendicularly over the sea, which lies many hundred
feet below it. In many parts it appears very dangerous, and were the
carriage to upset, the traveller would be instantly precipitated into
the waves below. Between Chiavari and Rapal there are two tunnels cut
through the solid rock. This latter place is a very pretty village
or small town, close upon the sea, and the whole country round it
seems very populous; country-houses, villas, and farms, appearing
on all sides among the vineyards and olive woods. At the top of the
last hill, after leaving Rapal, we came to another tunnel, which was
carried through the summit for one hundred yards or more, and presented
us with one of the most striking views possible. Looking through the
mountain we first saw the blue and tranquil sea, with a few passing
sails, then presently rose to view, as it were out of the ocean, the
white and glittering towers of _Genova la superba_, and its field
of masts, scarcely visible to the eye. Emerging from the tunnel the
view became more extensive, for we could trace the road to Genoa,
about ten miles off, running along the mountains somewhat above the
sea, and lined with villages and villas lying upon the sides of the
hills, which, however, were not so finely wooded as those we had just
passed. This city of palaces much disappointed me, and does not at all
answer to its splendid appearance from a distance; it seems like two
different towns brought together from the opposite parts of the world,
and built for very different inhabitants. The upper part of the city
consists of magnificent streets, or rather rows of marble palaces,
while the streets of the lower town form only an assemblage of dirty
and narrow lanes. Our hotel, La Villa, looks out upon the harbour,
which is chiefly filled with small craft. In the middle of the gulf,
however, were three frigates in full sail, which were bearing the King
of Sardinia and his suite to Naples.
_14th-17th._ Sir Humphry has determined to remain here two or three
days to recover from the fatigues of the journey hither. Dr. Davy,
who was to have left us here and return to Malta, has determined upon
accompanying his brother to Geneva. I generally read to Sir Humphry the
greater part of the day, but I went on the 15th for a couple of hours
upon one of the hills behind the town, and took a sketch of it as it
lay stretched out beneath me. The hills are indeed rather barren, and
this, combined with the scarcity of fish, speak for the truth of at
least a part of the following proverb,
Mare senza pesce,
Montagne senza legno,
Donna senza pudore,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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