Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
After having read to Sir Humphry till nearly ten, I set out,
accompanied by three guides furnished with lamps and some pounds of
candles. We walked across the fields for about a mile in darkness,
the moon not having yet risen, till we came to a slight ascent which
brought us to a door in the mountain. The guides here lighted their
lamps, and cut the candles into bits, and unlocking the door, we
entered and found ourselves in a low and dark passage. Two of the
guides went on before with the candles, and I followed a few minutes
after with the other, the only one of the three who spoke German. The
passage brought us to the top of a rock, where we found ourselves in an
immense vault, the roof and sides of which could not be distinguished
by the eye. Below us, at the foot of the rock, we heard the rushing
of a river, whose waters were invisible to us owing to the extreme
darkness. We saw the other two guides upon a frail wooden bridge, which
is thrown across this subterraneous stream, they having already lighted
some of the candles, which they were engaged in fixing upon the side
rail, and in a few minutes, more than thirty candles in some degree
dispelled the darkness which surrounded us. The river became visible
for about one hundred yards on each side of the bridge, flowing as it
were out of total darkness above, and passing again into gloom and
shade below it. The light however was by no means sufficient to enable
me to discover the roof of this vast dome. It is a striking scene,
but very different from any presented by the grotto of Corneale, and
a poet might have thought the vault a banquetting room for the giants
of old, or the council-chamber of Lucifer and his host; the dark and
rushing water the gloomy river Styx, dividing him from the kingdom
of Pluto, and have expected to see the grim ferryman appear with his
boat. There was however no Charon to ferry us over, and we accordingly
descended the steps in the rock, and crossed the river by the tottering
and slippery bridge. A steep path cut in the rocks on the other side
conducted us to the _Little Temple_, a small vault, whose roof and
sides were covered with stalactites of the most varied and grotesque
forms, hanging down from the roof, shooting out from the sides, or
rising as stalagmites[F] from the floor, some pointed, some round, and
others flat, thin, and transparent. In one part of this temple are
inscribed the names of the strangers who have visited the grotto. From
hence we went to the _Hall_, or _Place of the Tournament_, passing in
another vault by the _Butcher's stall_, perhaps one of the most apt
denominations of the many which the guides have given to the numerous
larger masses of stalactite met with in these caverns. It stands
alone, projecting from the walls of the vault, and somewhat resembles
a pulpit in form. One of the guides enters this stall with a lamp,
and illuminates the different joints of limestone meat, sausages,
hams, &c., which hang around.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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