Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
_14th._ We had a long drive from Cagli to Sigillo through a fine
mountainous country, passing over some small Roman bridges, easily
distinguished from those of modern times, by the gigantic size of the
blocks of stone of which they are formed. Another remarkable object on
this road is a bridge of great height, built over a deep ravine, in
order to preserve the level of the road. It consists of a small arch
thrown across the mountain stream, above which a complete circle or
tunnel of nearly one hundred feet in diameter, has been built, and thus
forms the support of the road. In one part of the mountain we observed
some very curiously carved strata in the limestone rock which composes
this chain. From Sigillo we proceeded in the afternoon to Nocera,
passing on the road many a hill of stones surmounted by a wooden cross,
the only monument of the unfortunate travellers who had perished in
these wild and solitary spots, by the hands of the ferocious banditti,
which still too often infest these parts of the Appenines. It was dark
when we reached Nocera, and we here found the hotel as bad if not worse
than at Cagli.
_15th._ We left Nocera at about half-past seven in the morning and
reached Foligno by eleven. This latter place is a large and very
dirty town, nor does there seem to be anything interesting in it or
its vicinity. We quitted it at two o'clock, and drove on to Spoleto,
passing along the banks of the Clytumnus, which Byron with truth calls
"A mirror and a bath for Beauty's youngest daughters,"
for every plant and leaf at the bottom, seems as if viewed through a
clear and spotless crystal. A little above the source of this river,
stands the temple of its god, of small and delicate proportions. The
front is still in good preservation, but the roof is covered with
tiles, and the sides are patched with bricks; and it is now apparently
used as a stable or pig-sty, and the waters of the stream are polluted
by ass-drivers and water-women.
We are now driving over roads once covered with the Carthaginian
legions led on by Hannibal, rushing in all the fire of conquest from
the field of Thrasymene; and in the evening we arrived at Spoleto, the
town which offered him such stout resistance, when on his march to
Rome, and before which he lay a fortnight. It lies on a hill, which
renders the streets exceedingly steep; and besides this, they are
narrow, dark and dirty. The only remarkable object in it is the gate
called Hannibal's Gate, which is very ancient, and bears the following
inscription on a marble tablet, celebrating his defeat and retreat from
this town.
HANNIBAL
CAESIS AD THRASYMENUM ROMANIS
INFESTO AGMINE URBEM ROMAM PETENS
AD SPOLETUM MAGNA STRAGE SUORUM REPULSUS
INSIGNE PORTAE NOMEN FECIT.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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