Journal of a Voyage to Brazil: And Residence There During Part of the Years 1821, 1822, 1823Callcott, Maria, Lady
History
Journal of a Voyage to Brazil: And Residence There During Part of the Years 1821, 1822, 1823
Callcott, Maria, Lady
Brazil -- Description and travel
_Wednesday, 17th._--This morning, at day-break, my eyes opened on one of
the finest scenes they ever beheld. A city, magnificent in appearance
from the sea, is placed along the ridge and on the declivity of a very
high and steep hill: the richest vegetation breaks through the white
houses at intervals, and beyond the city, reaches along to the outer
point of land on which the picturesque church and convent of Sant
Antonio da Barre is placed. Here and there the bright red soil shows
itself in harmony with the tiling of the houses. The _tracery_ of forts,
the bustle of shipping, hills melting in the distance, and the very form
of the bay, with its promontories and islands, altogether finish this
charming picture; then the fresh sea-breeze gives spirit to enjoy it,
notwithstanding its tropical climate.
Early in the day we moved our anchorage closer in-shore; and then, on
the invitation of Mr. Pennell, the British consul, we went ashore to
spend the day with him. We landed at the arsenal, or rather dock-yard,
where there is nothing of the neatness observable in such establishments
at home. The first object we saw, however, was a fine 58-gun frigate on
the stocks, the model of which I hear connoisseurs praise as beautiful.
There is nothing besides the new ship, and some handsome pieces of old
brass cannon, worth looking at. Every thing is visibly either suspended
or on the decline, and there will probably be no improvement, until the
political state of Brazil is a little more settled. We find things here,
though not quite so unquiet as at Pernambuco, yet tending the same way.
The street into which we proceeded through the arsenal gate, forms, at
this place, the breadth of the whole lower town of Bahia, and is,
without any exception, the filthiest place I ever was in. It is
extremely narrow, yet all the working artificers bring their benches,
and tools into the street: in the interstices between them, along the
walls, are fruit-sellers, venders of sausages, black-puddings, fried
fish, oil and sugar cakes, negroes plaiting hats or mats, caderas, (a
kind of sedan chair,) with their bearers, dogs, pigs, and poultry,
without partition or distinction; and as the gutter runs in the middle
of the street, every thing is thrown there from the different stalls, as
well as from the windows; and there the animals live and feed! In this
street are the warehouses and counting-houses of the merchants, both
native and foreign. The buildings are high, but neither so handsome nor
so airy as those of Pernambuco.
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