Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia: From Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844-1845Leichhardt, Ludwig
History
Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia: From Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844-1845
Leichhardt, Ludwig
Australia -- Description and travel; Australia -- Discovery and exploration
I traced a creek at the east side of Macarthur's Peak to its head, and
went down another on its west side to a large plain, which seemed to be
limited to the westward by openly-timbered ridges. As we advanced into
the plain, a most remarkable and interesting view of a great number of
peaks and domes opened to the N.N.W. and N.W. There seemed no end of
apparently isolated conical mountains, which, as they resemble very much
the chain of extinct volcanos in Auvergne, might easily be mistaken for
such; but, after changing the aspect a little, they assumed the
appearance of immense tents, with very short ridge-poles. To the most
remarkable of them, which had the appearance of an immense cupola, I gave
the name of Gilbert's Dome, after my companion. Far to the N.N.W. a blue
peak was seen rising behind a long range of mountains, and from the
latter a valley seemed to descend to the W.N.W. A round hill, of a
reddish colour, to the south or south-west of Macarthur's Peak, was
called Mount Lowe, after R. Lowe, Esq. of Sydney. The general direction
of these mountains seems to be from N. 60 degrees W. to S. 60 degrees E.,
and, if we compare them with the line of the coast in the neighbourhood
of Broadsound and Shoalwater bay, bearing due east, it will be found that
they are parallel to its direction. All the creeks which we examined, and
which fell to the south-west, were entirely dry. On the ridges which
bounded the plain to the westward, I met with Acacia pendula; and I may
here remark that this appears to be the most northern limit of its
habitat. Here also, in an old camp of the natives, we found a heap of
muscle-shells, which were probably taken from some very deep and shady
holes in the creek, but which were now without the slightest indication
of moisture. Water failing us on the western slopes, I crossed to the
east side, under the idea and hope that the north and north-east sides of
the range, from being more exposed to the sea winds, would be better
provided with water; and, passing to the left of Calvert's Peak, over low
basaltic ridges, I came to a creek with a shallow bed, winding between
basaltic ridges to the north-east. These ridges were lightly timbered,
and covered with an abundance of dry grass: dark-green patches of scrub
raised our hopes from time to time, and quickened our pace; but in vain,
for no water was to be found. Fatigued and exhausted by thirst, both
rider and horse wished for an early halt. We stopped, therefore, and
hobbled our horses; and, when I had spread my saddle, my head sank
between its flaps, and I slept soundly until the cool night-air, and the
brilliant moonlight, awoke me. I found my poor companion, Mr. Calvert,
suffering severely from thirst, more so indeed than I did; but I was
unfortunately labouring under a most painful diarrhoea, which of itself
exhausted my strength. In the morning, to add to our distress, our horses
were not to be found, and Mr. Calvert had a walk of four hours to get
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