Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 1 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815Mercer, Cavalié
History
Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 1 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815
Mercer, Cavalié
Mercer, Cavalié, 1783-1868 -- Diaries; Waterloo, Battle of, Waterloo, Belgium, 1815 -- Personal narratives, British
whether any modern architect be capable of the _original conception_;
and I am sure that, spite of the ‘Mechanic’s Magazine’ and the
present philosophical studies of our masons, none of them could
produce more perfect or better work. Like painting, architecture
has had its day. Sir Christopher Wren himself acknowledged his
astonishment at the boldness of the arches of King’s College Chapel,
Cambridge, and confessed his ignorance as to their construction and
mode of placing the key-stones.
After all, the Hôtel de Ville is irregular in its construction, and
the placing the tower at one extremity of the façade instead of the
centre I have heard censured as a grievous fault;--I like it--there
is originality even in that. The general effect is most imposing.
Nor is the varied throng frequenting this fine place on market-days
unworthy of it,--their quaint and original costume harmonising well
with the character of the architectural setting around. Many were my
visits to Brussels, and always was I delighted. If I did not see all
that I now speak of at that first one, _n’importe_. The effect of St
Gudule’s (the cathedral) is in this respect very good, situated upon
a terrace to which one ascends by a broad flight of stairs to the
fine Gothic portal, flanked by two handsome towers, and looking out
over the city on the country beyond. Up this flight of steps I did
ascend with solemn pace and slow, and into its beautiful nave: but
the celebrated sculptured pulpit obtained from me no more observation
or admiration than those of Ghent and Bruges. The emotion I feel on
entering a Gothic cathedral is of a nature too solemn to admit of
dwelling upon, or even noticing, such things.
How strikingly Spanish are the charming Bruxellaises in their
mantillas, gracefully crossed on the bosom! I have often heard and
read that they are so, but had no recollection of the circumstance at
the moment the fact struck me. The mantilla itself, so Spanish, has
its testimony of their ancestry confirmed by the brilliant black eyes
sparkling beneath it; and the prevalence of black dresses amongst
the groups frequenting the park, or _allée-verte_, complete the
illusion, and for a second we forget that these are not Andalusians.
Never having been in company with any of the fair dames of Brussels,
it would be presumption to say more than what I saw of them in
public; my say, therefore, amounts to the having seen many lovely
faces and graceful figures, though I had once foolishly fancied
that all Flemish women must be of the same breed as Anne of Cleves,
or the strapping wenches with whom Rubens and others have made us
familiar--forgetting that, as the offspring of some of the finest
men and handsomest women in Europe, the Austrians, Spaniards, and
French, they ought to show well. From outward appearance it would
be, perhaps, difficult to decide the origin; but in the ladies the
Spanish blood generally seems to predominate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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