But if London is inferior to Paris in this respect, how superior she is in public squares! The costly iron railings, the masterly statues that decorate some, and the pleasant shrubberies, smooth, well-kept turf, and well-rolled walks which characterise most of them, are nowhere to be seen in Paris. The Place Louis Quinze is not what we should call a square in London; it is a sort of esplanade, separating the ramparts and gardens of the Tuileries from the Champs Elysées; the third side is closed by the river, and the fourth is the only side having buildings--those of the Garde Meuble. It is an agreeable esplanade, but is no square. The Place Royale is, I believe, the largest square in Paris; but, for the reasons before mentioned, I have as yet never seen it. From all that I have heard, it is surrounded by very lofty, and perhaps once handsome houses, which then were the habitations of the principal _noblesse_, though now of a numerous population of artisans. In the middle of it, I understand, is a fountain, some trees, &c., in the manner of our squares. The Place Vendome is the next in size to the former; it is octagonal, and the houses, all uniformly built, are of a respectable class, but the style of them is heavy and dull: the want of a _trottoir_, the houses standing as they do with their ground-floors unscreened or unprotected from the carriage-way, spite of the splendid column springing from its centre, give this places a mean, _triste_ appearance. I could not divest myself of the idea of its being a mews. The Place des Victoires, meant to be circular, is only a small concern, neither handsome nor ornamental, and perhaps only useful as admitting light and air into a very thick and closely-built part of the town. These are, strictly speaking, the only real public squares; for the Parvis Nôtre Dame, Place du Carrousel, &c. &c., are only esplanades in front of the Cathedral and Tuileries. On the whole, however, Paris is a much more cheerful place than London. In this respect there is no comparison between them. 8 P.M.--Rambled up the road to Garges, which is still nearly as deserted as ever; but the rags and tatters, and broken glass, &c., with which the street was strewed, have in a great measure disappeared. After dinner, Cossack being still rather lame, I rode Mula through the vineyards to Pierrefitte. The country is much prettier on that side than with us, being hilly, whereas we are on a dead level. Our waggon-train officers are doing cavalry with a vengeance, and making a great swagger among the natives. Took a round by Villetaneuse--through vineyards, plantations of artichokes, &c.--and passing along the enclosure of a very handsome domain, with a fine house of brick, let Mula find her own road home, which she did very cleverly and very directly. I think (at least on smooth ground) mules are not so sure-footed as is usually believed and asserted--perhaps amongst rocks and mountains they may be. _6th._--Sunday.