Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 2 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815Mercer, Cavalié
History
Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 2 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815
Mercer, Cavalié
Mercer, Cavalié, 1783-1868 -- Diaries; Waterloo, Battle of, Waterloo, Belgium, 1815 -- Personal narratives, British
_August 9th._--Not quite well this morning, but I went to town to
meet Hitchins, and make a sight-seeing day of it. Accordingly we have
done pretty well, galloping through the Luxembourg, Les Monumens, and
wandering over almost the whole southern part of Paris. I can’t say,
however, that this has been to me a day of much interest; I prefer
a thousand times wandering about the town by myself--observing the
habits, manners, &c., of the people--to all the sight-seeing; but I
allowed Hitchins to shame me out of the idea of leaving Paris without
seeing everything. Much, however, I fear I shall have to blush for,
if that be necessary, and amongst others the theatres, not one of
which have I ever entered yet. The Luxembourg is a fine palace,
and I like its style of architecture much better than that of the
Tuileries, though it is vilely situated. The gardens are much the
same--parterres, ponds, ramparts--_voilà tout_. The great attractions
here are the Chamber of Peers, and the Galleries of Rubens, Vernet,
and of the French Raphael Le Sueur. The first I cannot bear, spite of
his beautiful colouring and well-managed _chiaro-oscuro_--allegory
is my abomination; the pictures of the second are more to my taste;
but the blue works of the French Raphael I could not appreciate.
Besides these, we saw a multitude of other masterpieces; and I was
particularly pleased at having an opportunity of seeing some by
David, of whom I have heard so much. Here disappointment awaited me,
and a glance at the “Judgment of Brutus” satisfied me--all yellow
and glare, and extravagant attitudes. Surely the human spine would
never admit of being doubled in the manner of the fainting female
introduced in the foreground of this picture--a perfect parabola. To
reach the Chamber of Peers, we passed through a grove of orange-trees
in boxes, and then mounted a very fine staircase ornamented with
statues of great men, among which two were very spirited--those of
Condorcet and of General Dessaix, said to be likenesses; I had no
idea the latter was so young. The Chamber itself is a very handsome
semicircular hall, having the President’s desk in the centre of
the chord, and those of the members round the curve. Beyond this
is the Salle de la Paix, a very handsome room, the walls of which
are covered with paintings by David, representing the victories of
Napoleon, weakly enough hid with green baize, and not allowed to be
seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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