Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 2 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815Mercer, Cavalié
History
Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 2 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815
Mercer, Cavalié
Mercer, Cavalié, 1783-1868 -- Diaries; Waterloo, Battle of, Waterloo, Belgium, 1815 -- Personal narratives, British
Disappointment awaits the man who, having read or heard the French
account of any place in France or the French dominions, expects to
find it realised, or even nearly so. With them all is exaggeration
and bombast; even the accounts of their most respectable and
veracious writers, in all matters relating to France or the French,
must be received _cum grano salis_. Disappointment certainly was
mine after reading and hearing so much of the several gardens (as
Frascatin, Tivoli, the Jardins Turc and du Prince) when I turned
into the latter of these two celebrated places in the Boulevard
du Temple. Certes, I took it _en déshabillé_, for the evening and
by lamp-light is its hour of triumph, and then I am here always.
The guide-book speaks of “un jardin agréable.” What did I find?
Certainly no garden--a yard (gravelled) divided by hedges (such
ones as may be expected in a town) into several compartments, in
which are a few boxes; one side bounded by the _salle_, with its
usual accompaniments--the others, by gables or back walls of the
neighbouring houses; figure irregular, and space very confined.
Having nothing fixed for Friday, I made a wandering day of it.
Up one gloomy street, down another; at last found myself in the
Place des Innocens, in which is held the principal vegetable-market
of Paris. The Place is large but gloomy; houses very high, of a
dark-coloured stone, and in the usual French style, windows open,
and exhibiting all the variety of clothes hanging to dry, flowers,
rich curtains and common ones, &c. &c., incident to buildings
inhabited by so many different families. The area presented a
varied, characteristic, and moreover an interesting picture. The
whole space was covered with large umbrellas, fixed upright over
the different tables, &c., the convex surfaces of which, of all the
hues of the rainbow (pink predominating), reminded me strongly of
the _testudo_ of the ancients. Amidst these arose, to the height
of some forty or fifty feet, the noble Fontaine des Innocens, with
its fine _nappes d’eau_. Not only the Marché itself, but the Rue de
la Ferronnerie, and several adjacent ones, seem quite the focus of
business, such stir and bustle do they present. The profusion of
fruits and vegetables in this market is remarkable, more particularly
when it is remembered that not only Paris itself, but also the whole
neighbouring country, is occupied by countless hosts of foreigners.
The old ladies, seated under their immense umbrellas (formed
generally of alternate pink and white breadths), or stumping about
in their _sabots_, give a very animated air to this scene, which,
however, is rendered less pleasing from the overpowering smell of
decayed and decaying vegetable matter profusely strewed over the
pavement. It is an amusing place this Marché, and although only now
mentioned, I have visited it more than once. Besides this, there are
numerous other markets in different parts of the town, the neatest
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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