Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 2 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815Mercer, Cavalié
History
Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 2 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815
Mercer, Cavalié
Mercer, Cavalié, 1783-1868 -- Diaries; Waterloo, Battle of, Waterloo, Belgium, 1815 -- Personal narratives, British
gardens of the Tuileries, that here I experienced a disappointment
similar to that inflicted by the Champs Elysées. Nevertheless they
certainly form a very agreeable promenade. That part immediately
under the windows of the palace is laid out in parterres of
flower-beds of different geometrical figure. I should say that the
garden is a dead level.[15] Between the parterres are broad walks,
well rolled and well swept. The further part is a grove, forming a
cool and pleasant promenade or lounge, much taken advantage of by
the Parisians, who may be seen lounging in one or two chairs, as may
be, in all directions. These chairs are the property of individuals
who bring them there, and make a livelihood by letting them out at
two or three sous the chair. Similar accommodation, it appears,
is to be found in every public place, even in the Boulevards. The
ramparts (rather grandiloquent, when speaking of a mere terrace),
which surround the garden on three sides, are planted also, and
afford a most interesting promenade from the views they command;
yet, strange to say, people appear to prefer the more confined
one below. Although I do not like the formal laying out of these
gardens, yet can I not but confess there is something very lordly
(or kingly) in them. The broad, well-kept gravel-walks, the play
of the fountains, the numerous orange-trees in boxes, which fill
the air with their delicious but rather overpowering perfume, the
multitude of statues, the view down the centre _allée_, which is
prolonged into an immense perspective by being on the same line with
that of the Champs Elysées, and on the other hand the ancient and
venerable pile, with its numerous windows, long covered verandas,
&c., overlooking the whole. The gaily-dressed crowd, too, by which
the garden is almost always filled, gives it a holiday air very
pleasing. Passing once more through the palace and traversing the
Place du Carrousel, we soon reached the southern entrance of the
Palais Royal. It was “change time,” and the place in front of the
gate was filled with business-like people, exactly as in our Royal
Exchange. What a strange propensity the French have for misnomers! On
entering the so-called “_garden_”[16] of the Palais Royal, I was for
the third time disappointed. Instead of a garden I found myself in an
immense arid esplanade, surrounded (at least on three sides) by lofty
uniform buildings, the façade of which was decorated by Corinthian
pilasters, and surmounted by vases, &c. An arcade ran all round the
base. The side by which we entered was disfigured by a shabby wooden
erection, under which were numerous stalls of petty dealers in every
sort of articles, but apparently all of inferior quality. Under
the arcades were shops of a better description, intermingled with
cafés, restaurants, &c., and here was certainly a splendid display of
goods of the richest kind. Watch-makers exhibited the most elegant
little toys, enriched with pearls and chased-work; jewellers the most
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