Numerous were the villas along the road, but, like those in the neighbourhood of London, the shrubberies in which they were embowered, and everything about them, was grey and dingy with the dust with which they were powdered. A great part of this line seemed inhabited only by washerwomen. The foul linen of all Paris seemed assembled here. The abundance of fine water, perhaps, is the cause of this. Pity that some portion of it were not employed in making this otherwise beautiful ride somewhat more enjoyable. It was growing so late as I passed Sêvres, that I merely can say I saw the exterior of the celebrated manufactory of porcelain. A thick dark avenue of trees, turning to the left, here seemed to promise a short cut to St Cloud; so up it I turned, but had not proceeded far ere I stumbled on a guard of Prussian jägers in an old summer-house. The sentry stopped and ordered me back. The corporal coming out, and finding that I was an English officer, very civilly informed me that, as Prince Blucher had his headquarters in the palace of St Cloud, no one was allowed to cross the park. Back, then, I went, and descending to the Seine found a good road, by which, passing through St Cloud, Suresnes, &c., I returned hither just as it got so dark that I was obliged to my horse for bringing me safe home. The latter part of my ride along the charming banks of the river, and in the cool of a fine evening, was truly delightful. _15th._--I went to Paris again, wandered about the streets without any fixed plan, and quite by accident stumbled upon the Hôtel Dieu. I like this random mode of proceeding much better than following any fixed plan of sight-seeing: it is more independent. I walked into the hospital and through its wards. Nothing could be cleaner or better arranged; but the whole place, especially about the main entrance, had such an overpowering smell, that I was glad to make my escape and find my way to the Cathedral of Nôtre Dame. There is something exceedingly impressive in the interior of a Gothic cathedral at any time. Mass was performing as I entered the church, the solemnity of which, from the little light and rather heavy style of the architecture, was increased by the fine bass voices of the canons who assisted in the service, every one in his stall. From Nôtre Dame, after taking an omelet in a neighbouring restaurant, I had a long stroll by the quays to the Invalides. The old soldiers lounging or walking about the approaches to this fine establishment, although perfectly respectful, I thought looked displeased at seeing me. There were even some who did not attempt to conceal looks and gestures of hatred and contempt. They are to be pitied more than blamed for this feeling, since these were the men who fought and _always_ conquered in Italy and Germany. Notwithstanding their scowling looks, I could not help regarding these fine veterans with the most profound veneration. I found no difficulty, however, in procuring a