Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 1 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
We had to climb right up the hill, which is very steep, and, when close
under it, seemed to be high, but we soon reached the top, and when we
were there had lost sight of the lake; and now our road was over a moor,
or rather through a wide moorland hollow. Having gone a little way, we
saw before us, at the distance of about half a mile, a very large stone
building, a singular structure, with a high wall round it, naked hill
above, and neither field nor tree near; but the moor was not overgrown
with heath merely, but grey grass, such as cattle might pasture upon. We
could not conjecture what this building was; it appeared as if it had
been built strong to defend it from storms; but for what purpose?
William called out to us that we should observe that place well, for it
was exactly like one of the spittals of the Alps, built for the
reception of travellers, and indeed I had thought it must be so before
he spoke. This building, from its singular structure and appearance,
made the place, which is itself in a country like Scotland nowise
remarkable, take a character of unusual wildness and desolation--this
when we first came in view of it; and afterwards, when we had passed it
and looked back, three pyramidal mountains on the opposite side of Loch
Lomond terminated the view, which under certain accidents of weather
must be very grand. Our Highland companion had not English enough to
give us any information concerning this strange building; we could only
get from her that it was a "large house," which was plain enough.
We walked about a mile and a half over the moor without seeing any other
dwelling but one hut by the burn-side, with a peat-stack and a
ten-yards-square enclosure for potatoes; then we came to several
clusters of houses, even hamlets they might be called, but where there
is any land belonging to the Highland huts there are so many
out-buildings near, which differ in no respect from the dwelling-houses
except that they send out no smoke, that one house looks like two or
three. Near these houses was a considerable quantity of cultivated
ground, potatoes and corn, and the people were busy making hay in the
hollow places of the open vale, and all along the sides of the becks. It
was a pretty sight altogether--men and women, dogs, the little running
streams, with linen bleaching near them, and cheerful sunny hills and
rocks on every side. We passed by one patch of potatoes that a florist
might have been proud of; no carnation-bed ever looked more gay than
this square plot of ground on the waste common. The flowers were in very
large bunches, and of an extraordinary size, and of every conceivable
shade of colouring from snow-white to deep purple. It was pleasing in
that place, where perhaps was never yet a flower cultivated by man for
his own pleasure, to see these blossoms grow more gladly than elsewhere,
making a summer garden near the mountain dwellings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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