Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
The priests in their gaudy attire, with their young white-robed
attendants, made a solemn appearance, while clouds of incense were
ascending over their heads to the large crucifix above the altar; and
the "pealing organ" sounded to the "full-voiced quire." There was a
beautiful nun in a grey garment with a long black scarf, white forehead
band, belt, and rosary. Intent upon her devotions, she did not cast an
eye towards us, and we stood to look at her. The faces of many of the
women are handsome, but the steady grace, the chastened motions of their
persons, and the mild seriousness of their countenances, are _most_
remarkable....
From Furnes to Bruges we had travelled through a flat country, yet with
an endless variety, produced by the various produce of a beautiful soil
carefully cultivated. We had been told that the country between Ghent
and Bruges was much of the same kind, only not so interesting, therefore
we were not sorry to interpose the variety of the packet-boat to
Ghent.... And, when all was ready, took our places on the deck of the
vessel. The tinkling of a bell, the signal for departure; and we glided
gently away with motion only perceptible by the _eye_, looking at the
retreating objects on the shore.... Two nuns and a priest (his
prayer-book in his hand), an English dandy, a handsome lady-like Flemish
girl, dressed in an elegant gauze mob-cap with flowers, and robe _à la
française_, were the most noticeable people.... The groups under the
awning would make a lively picture. The priest, in his cocked hat,
standing at his prayers, the pretty maiden in her cap and flowers, and
_there_ are the nuns. My brother and the nuns are very merry. _They_
seem to have left their prayer-books at home, and one of them has a
pamphlet in her hand that looks like a magazine. Low cottages, pretty
and clean, close to the bank; a woman scouring a copper vessel, in white
jacket, red cap, blue petticoat, and clean sailcloth apron; the flat
country to be seen over the low banks of the canal, spires and towers,
and sometimes a village may be descried among trees; many little
public-houses to tempt a landing; near one I see a pleasant arbour, with
seats aloft for smoking.... The nuns are merry; so is the priest, in his
spectacles; the dandy recommends shoes, in preference to boots, as more
convenient. "There is nobody that can clean either on the Continent."
For my part, I think they clean _them_ as well as anything else, except
their vessels for cookery! they cannot get the dust out of a chair, or
_rub_ a table!... William and I remained till the carriages were safely
landed, amid a confusion of tongues, French, German, and English, and
inarticulate shoutings, such as belong to all nations.... Canals round
the town, rows of trees, fortifications converted into pleasure-grounds.
We pass through old and picturesque streets, with an intermixture of
houses of a later date, and showy shops; an appearance of commerce and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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