Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
_Sunday, July 16th._--_Brussels._--After breakfast, proceeded through
the park, a very large open space with shady walks, statues, fountains,
pools, arbours, and seats, and surrounded by palaces and fine houses--to
the Cathedral, which, though immensely large, was so filled with people
that we could scarcely make our way so as, by standing upon chairs (for
which we paid two sous each), to have a view of the building over the
multitudes of heads. The priests, at high mass, could not be seen; but
the melody of human voices, accompanied by the organ, pierced through
every recess--then came bursts of sound like thunder; and, at times, the
solemn rousing of the trumpet. Powerful as was the effect of the music,
the excessive heat and crowding after a short while overcame every other
feeling, and we were glad to go into the open air. Our _laquais de
place_ conducted us to the house of a shopkeeper, where, from a room in
the attics, we might view the procession. It was close to one of the
triangular openings with which most of the streets of Brussels
terminate. To the right, we looked down the street along which the
procession was to come, and, a little to the left below us, overlooked
the triangles, in the centre of which was a fountain ornamented with
three marble statues, and a pillar in the midst, topped by a golden
ball--the whole decorated with festoons of holly, and large roses made
of paper, alternately red and yellow. In like manner the garlands were
composed in all the streets through which the procession was to pass;
but in some parts there were also young fir-trees stuck in the pavement,
leaving a foot-way between them and the houses. Paintings were hung out
by such as possessed them, and ribands and flags. The street where we
were was lined with people assembled like ourselves in expectation, all
in their best attire. Peasants to be distinguished by their short
jackets, petticoats of scarlet or some other bright colour (in
contrast), crosses, or other ornament of gold or gilding; the
bourgeoises, with black silk scarfs overhead, and reaching almost to
their feet; ladies, a little too much of the French or English; little
girls, with or without caps, and some in elegant white veils. The
windows of all the houses open, and people seen at full length, or
through doorways, sitting, or standing in patient expectation. It amused
us to observe _them_, and the arrangements of their houses--which were
even splendid, compared with those of persons of like condition in our
own country--with an antique cast over all. Nor was it less amusing to
note the groups or lines of people below us. Whether standing in the hot
sunshine, or the shade, they appeared equally contented. Some approached
the fountain--a sacred spot!--to drink of the pure waters, out of which
rise the silent statues. The spot is sacred; for there, before the
priests arrived in the procession, incense was kindled in the urns, and
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