Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
_Tuesday, July 18th._--_Namur._--Before breakfast we went to the church
of the Jesuits; beautiful pillars of marble, roof of pumice-stone
curiously wrought, the colour chaste and sombre. The churches of Ghent
and Bruges are injured by being whitewashed: that of Brussels is of a
pale grey, or stone-colour, which has a much better effect, though
nothing equal to the roof of the Jesuits' church at Namur; yet in one
point (_i.e._ the painted windows) the Cathedral of Brussels surpasses
all the churches we have yet seen.... Several women passed us who had
come thither to attend upon the labourers employed in repairing and
enlarging the fortifications. Their dresses were neat and gay; and, in
that place of which we had so often read in histories of battles and
sieges, their appearance, while they struggled cheerfully with the
blustering wind, was wild and romantic. The fondness for flowers appears
in this country wherever you go. Nothing is more common than to see a
man, driving a cart, with a rose in his mouth. At the very top of our
ascent, I saw one at work with his spade, a full-blown rose covering his
lips, which he must have brought up the hill,--or had some favourite
lass there presented it to him?...
_Wednesday, July 19th._--_Liége._--My first entrance into the
market-place brought a shock of cheerful sensation. It was like the
bursting into life of a Flemish picture. Such profusion of fruit! such
outspreading of flowers! and heaps of vegetables! and such variety in
the attire of the women! A curious and abundant fountain, surrounded
with large stone basins, served to wash and refresh the vegetables.
Torrents of voices assailed us while we threaded our way among the fruit
and fragrant flowers; bouquets were held out to us by half a score of
sunburnt arms at once. The women laughed--_we_ laughed, took one
bouquet, and gave two sous, our all.... Left Liége about 9 o'clock--were
recognised and greeted by many of the women at their stalls as we passed
again through the market-place.... Ascended a very steep hill, on the
top of which stands the ruined convent of the Chartreuse, and there we
left our carriages to look back upon the fine view of the city,
spreading from the ridge of the crescent hill opposite to us (which is,
however, somewhat unpleasingly scarified by new fortifications), and
over the central plain of the vale, to the magnificent river which,
split into many channels, flows at the foot of the eminence where we
stood.... Still, as we proceed, we are reminded of England--the fields,
even the cottages, and large farm-houses, are English-like; country
undulating, and prospects extensive, yet continually some pretty little
spot detains the eye; groups of cottages, or single ones, green to the
very door.[39]
[Footnote 39: Compare in _Tintern Abbey_, ll. 16, 17--
"these pastoral farms,
Green to the very door." ED.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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