Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
while each goes in his own distinct path, side by side, yet one stream;
and they slowly and by degrees unite, each lost in the other--happy type
of a tranquil meeting, and joining together in the journey of life!
* * * * *
Coblentz, as every one knows, was for a long time the headquarters of
the French _noblesse_, and other emigrants, during the Revolution; and
it is surprising that in the exterior of manners and habits there should
be so little to remind the passing traveller of the French. In Ghent and
Brussels, it is impossible to forget that you are in towns _not_ making
a part of France; yet, in both those places, the French have sown seeds
which will never die--their manners, customs, and decorations are
everywhere struggling with the native stiffness of the Flemish: but in
_Coblentz_ it is merely incidentally that the French courtier or
gentleman is brought to mind; and shops, houses, public buildings, are
all of the soil where they have been reared--so at least they appeared
to us, in our transient view.
_St. Goar, Monday, July 24th._-- ... The town, seen from the heights, is
very beautiful, with purple roofs, two tall spires, and one tower. On
the opposite side of the river we peep into narrow valleys, formed by
the lofty hills, on which stand two ruins called, as we were told by our
lively attendant, the Katzen and Mausen Towers (_i.e._ the Towers of the
Cat and the Mouse). They stare upon each other at safe distance, though
near neighbours; and, across the river, the greater fortress of
Rheinfels defies them both. A lovely dell runs behind one of the hills;
at its opening where it pours out its stream into the Rhine we espied a
one-arched Borrowdale bridge, and behind the bridge a village almost
buried between the abruptly-rising steeps.... I will transcribe the few
words I wrote in my memorandum-book, dated "Beside the Rhine, St.
Goar":--"How shall I describe this soothing, this elegant place! The
river flows on. I see it flow, yet it is like a lake--the bendings of
the hills enclosing it at each end. Here I sit, half-way from the centre
of the curve. At the turning of that semi-circular curve stands our Inn;
near it is the Post-House, both rather handsome buildings. The town,
softened white and purple, the green hills rising abruptly above it.
Behind me (but I cannot see it) is the Castle of Rheinfels. On the
opposite banks of the river, the vine-clad steeps appear as if covered
with fern. It is a sweep of hills that from this point appear
_even_-topped. At the foot of one of the dells which we noticed from the
Castle eminence, there is a purple roofed town with one spire, and one
church or convent tower; and I see the Borrowdale bridge beside the
lowly hamlet in the cleft of the other dell. A ferry-boat has been
approaching its landing-place with a crew of peasants. They come now
slowly up from the shore, a picturesque train in grey attire--no showy
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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