Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
removed. Parties of students were to be seen in all quarters of the
groves and gardens. I am sorry, however, to say that their appearance
was not very scholarlike. They wear whatever wild and coarse apparel
pleases them--their hair long and disorderly, or rough as a water-dog,
throat bare or with a black collar, and often no appearance of a shirt.
Every one has his pipe, and they all talk loud and boisterously....
Never surely was any stream more inviting! It flows in its deep
bed--stately, yet often turbulent; and what dells, cleaving the green
hills, even close to the city! Looking down upon the purple roofs of
Heidelberg variously tinted, the spectacle is curious--narrow streets,
small squares, and gardens many and flowery. The main street, long and
also narrow, is (though the houses are built after no good style) very
pretty as seen from the heights, with its two gateways and two towers.
The Cathedral (it has an irregular spire) overtops all other edifices,
which, indeed, have no grace of architecture, and the University is even
mean in its exterior; but, from a small distance, _any_ city looks well
that is not modern, and where there is bulk and irregularity, with
harmony of colouring. But we did not enter the cathedral, having so much
to see out of doors.
_Heidelberg, Friday, July 28th._-- ... The first reach of the river for
a moment transported our imagination to the Vale of the Wye above
Tintern Abbey. A single cottage, with a poplar spire, was the central
object.... As we went further, villages appeared. But Mr. P. soon
conducted us from the river up a steep hill, and, after a long ascent,
he took us aside to a cone-shaped valley, a pleasure-dell--I call it
so--for it was terminated by a rural tavern and gardens, seats and
alcoves, placed close beside beautiful springs of pure water, spread out
into pools and distributed by fountains. A grey stone statue, in its
stillness, is a graceful object amid the rushing of water!... Our road
along the side of the hill, that still rose high above our heads, led us
through shady covert and open glade, over hillock or through hollow; at
almost every turning convenient seats inviting us to rest, or to linger
in admiration of the changeful prospects, where wild and cultivated
grounds seemed equally the darlings of the fostering sun. Many of the
hills are covered with forests, which are cut down after little more
than thirty years' growth; the ground is then ploughed, and sown with
buck-wheat, and afterwards with beech-nuts. The forests of _firs_
(numerous higher up, but not so here) are sown in like manner. Immense
quantities of timber are floated down the river. Sometimes in our
delightful walk we were led through tracts of vines, all belonging to
the Grand Duke. They are as free as the forest thickets and flowery
glades, and separated from them by no distinguishable boundary.
Whichever way the eye turned, it settled upon some pleasant sight....
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