Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
_Grindelwald, Friday, August 11th._--_Scheideck to Meiringen._--To our
right, looking over the green cradle of the vale, we saw the glacier,
with the stream issuing from beneath an arch of solid ice--the small
pyramids around it of a greyish colour, mingled with vitriol green. The
bed of icy snow above looked sullied, so that the glacier itself was not
beautiful, like what we had read of; but the mass of mountains behind,
their black crags and shadows, and the awful aspect of winter
encroaching on the valley-domain (combinations so new to us) made ample
amends for any disappointment we might feel.... The rain came on in
heavy drops, but did not drive us to the closer shelter of the house. We
heeded not the sprinkling which a gust of wind sometimes sent in upon
us. Good fortune had hitherto favoured us; and, even if we had been
detained at that house all night, the inconvenience would have been
trifling. Our spirits were uplifted, and we felt as if it would be a
privilege to be admitted to a near acquaintance with Alpine storms. This
at least was my feeling, till the threatenings were over; and then, by
happy transition, I gladly hailed the bursting light of the sun that
flashed upon the crags, seen by glimpses between the dispersing clouds.
The interior of the house was roomy and warm; and, though the floors
were of the bare soil, everything looked cleanly; the wooden vessels
were pretty, ladles and spoons curiously carved, and all neatly arranged
on shelves. Three generations, making a numerous family, were there
living together in the summer season, with their cattle on the rough
pastures round them:[49] no doubt the main support of the household, but
the gains from travellers must be considerable. We were surprised at
being asked if we chose coffee. Hardly should we have deserved our
welcome shelter had we not preferred the peasant's fare--cheese, milk,
and cream, with the addition of bread fetched from the vale; and I must
not omit a dish of fruit--bilberries--here very fine. Indeed most of our
mountain plants, except the branchy fern and the common daisy (which we
rarely saw), grow in lavish beauty, and many others unknown to us, that
enamel the turf like gems. The monkshood of our gardens, growing at a
great height on the Alps, has a brighter hue than elsewhere. It is seen
in tufts, that to my fancy presented fairy groves upon the green grass,
and in rocky places, or under trees.
[Footnote 49: All these Alps are occupied by owners of land in the
valleys, who have a right in common according to the quantity of
their land. The cheeses, like the rest of the produce, are the
property of all, and the distribution takes place at the end of the
season.--D. W.]
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