Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)Wordsworth, Dorothy
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Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Wordsworth, Dorothy
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Diaries; Wordsworth, Dorothy, 1771-1855 -- Diaries; Wordsworth, William, 1770-1850 -- Family
_Engelberg, Mount Titlis, Tuesday, August 15th._--We breakfasted in view
of the flashing, silver-topped Mount Titlis, and its grey crags, a sight
that roused William's youthful desires; and in spite of weak eyes, and
the weight of fifty winters, he could not repress a longing to ascend
that mountain.... But my brother had had his own visions of glory, and,
had he been twenty years younger, sure I am that he would have trod the
summit of the Titlis. Soon after breakfast we were warned to expect the
procession, and saw it issuing from the church. Priests in their white
robes, choristers, monks chanting the service, banners uplifted, and a
full-dressed image of the Virgin carried aloft. The people were divided
into several classes; the men, bareheaded; and maidens, taking
precedency of the married women, I suppose, because it was the festival
of the Virgin.
The procession formed a beautiful stream upon the green level, winding
round the church and convent. Thirteen hundred people were assembled at
Engelberg, and joined in this service. The unmarried women wore straw
hats, ornamented with flowers, white bodices, and crimson petticoats.
The dresses of the elder people were curious. What a display of
neck-chains and ear-rings! of silver and brocaded stomachers! Some old
men had coats after the mode of the time of _The Spectator_, with worked
seams. Boys, and even young men, wore flowers in their straw hats. We
entered the convent; but were only suffered to go up a number of
staircases, and through long whitewashed galleries, hung with portraits
of saints, and prints of remarkable places in Switzerland, and
particularly of the vale and convent of Engelberg, with plans and charts
of the mountains, etc. There are now only eighteen monks; and the abbot
no longer exists: his office, I suppose, became extinct with his
temporal princedom.... I strolled to the chapel, near the inn, a pretty
white edifice, entered by a long flight of steps. No priest, but several
young peasants, in shepherdess attire of jackets, and showy petticoats,
and flowery hats, were paying their vows to the Virgin. A colony of
swallows had built their nests within the cupola, in the centre of the
circular roof. They were flying overhead; and their voices seemed to me
an harmonious accompaniment to the silent devotions of those rustics.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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