Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
History
Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910
Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Feminists -- United States -- Biography; Howe, Julia Ward, 1819-1910
The Tybee cast anchor in the harbor of Puerto Plata, and the voyagers
saw Mont Isabel towering above them, its foot in the clear beryl water
where the palms grew down to the very edge of the yellow sea sand, its
head wrapped in the clouds. The Doctor came to the stateroom, crying,
"Come up and see the great glory!"
Our mother's delight can be imagined when they sailed into the harbor of
Santo Domingo and landed near an immense and immemorial tree, where,
they were told, Columbus had landed.
The party lodged in a fine old Spanish _palacio_, built round a
courtyard. It had been originally a convent. The nuns were gone, and
their place was now taken by the gay company of American ladies, who
possibly gave the sleepy little city more new ideas than it had ever
received in so short a space of time. President Baez put the palace at
the Doctor's disposal; he was an important person to the President and
to the Dominicans, for at that time the hope of annexation had not died
out. All the party were treated with extraordinary courtesy. Not only
were they given the presidential palace to live in, but a guard of honor
was kept in the courtyard. Their horses were lodged, Spanish fashion, on
the ground floor. The trampling, the neighing, and the fleas made them
rather uncomfortable neighbors. Our mother soon found out that the only
way she could see the country, or enjoy its life, was by riding. At
first she was a little nervous, but she soon regained her courage and
her seat. This was her first riding since the days of Cora, the wicked
little mare, when she read her Bible and said her prayers before every
ride. She thus describes it:--
"In Santo Domingo, nothing is more charming than the afternoon ride. It
is, of course, the great event of the neighborhood. Our cavalcade
usually numbers four or five ladies. Sometimes we cross the river in a
flat-bottomed boat, which is pulled over by a rope stretched and made
fast at either end. We then visit the little village of Pajarita, and
trot along under the shade of heavy mango trees. Or we explore the
country on this side the river. The great thing to guard against is the
danger of rain. This we encountered one afternoon in some severity.
Suddenly one of the party cried '_Llava!_' and down came the waters. We
were somewhat heated with our ride, and the penetrating rain fell chill
upon us. A large tree gave us shelter for a few moments, but we were
soon forced to seek more effectual protection. This we found, after some
delay, in a _boio_, or hut, into which horses and riders were dragged
pell-mell. The night was closing in, the Chief at home, and presumably
anxious, the rain unabating. Which of the tropical spasms would end our
far-spent life? Would it be lockjaw, a common result of severe chill in
these regions? Would it be a burning, delirious fever with a touch of
yellow; or should we get off with croup and diphtheria?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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