Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
History
Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910
Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Feminists -- United States -- Biography; Howe, Julia Ward, 1819-1910
The Journal gives pleasant glimpses of the Santo Domingo days.
"M. Marne, a Frenchman ninety-seven years old, paid us a visit. Had been
secretary of Joseph Buonaparte in Madrid--praised him much. Talked very
copiously and not ill. Enjoys full mental and physical activity. Lives
at a small village in sight of our windows, but on the other side of the
river. Talked much of the Roi Cristophe."
The mention of this old gentleman recalls her visit to a Dominican
_padre_, himself in extreme age, who told her that he had known a
negress who lived to the age of one hundred and forty-three; he had
confessed and buried her. "She had her teeth and her hair still."
"Not to market to-day, but breakfast early--then all hands to the
cathedral to see the high mass performed--to-day in honor of the
independence of the island....
"Baez' face, cunning, pretty strong, _enjoué_, as if he must be, or
seem, a _bon enfant_.... The noise at the elevation of the Host a
perfect Babel. Music, 'Ernani,' 'Fra Diavolo,' with some similar things.
A single trumpet shrieked at some high moments. The bells rang like a
thousand tin pans. Orchestra and chorus not together and both out of
tune. The ceremony otherwise perhaps as well as usual. A priest made a
brief address in Spanish, praising the day and complimenting the
President...."
"Studied Baur, Aristophanes, and '_Etudes sur la Bible_.' Music lesson
to Maud. O'Sullivan to dine.... Baez sent word that he would visit us
between 5 and 6 P.M. We accordingly put things in the best order
possible under the circumstances. _Ung puo de tualetta_ for the ladies
seemed proper. At dinner received Baez' card with a great dish of fine
sapotes. Baez arrived. He speaks French quite tolerably, is affable, and
has an intelligent face; in fact looks like a person of marked talent.
We talked of things in the United States. He has made fourteen voyages
to Europe.... I sang '_Una Barchetta_' for him. He came with one
servant, who stayed outside--no ceremony and no escort...."
After the beauty of the place--indeed possibly before it--she valued the
opportunity that came to her of preaching. On the voyage to Santo
Domingo she had learned of a shepherdless flock of colored Protestants,
their minister dead, their "elder" disabled by lameness. Here was an
opportunity not to be lost. She engaged to hold Sunday evening services
in their church, a small wooden building with a mud floor and a mahogany
pulpit. The "Reminiscences" describe these services; the tattered
hymn-books whose leaves were turned mechanically while the congregation
(few of whom could read) sang with a will the hymns they knew by heart;
the humble, devout people with their attentive faces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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