Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
History
Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910
Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Feminists -- United States -- Biography; Howe, Julia Ward, 1819-1910
"Left Schenectady yesterday. Drawing-room car. Read Greek a good deal.
At Syracuse I took the tumbler of the car and ran out to get some milk,
etc., for supper. Spent 25 cents, and took my slender meal in the car,
on a table. After this, slept profoundly all the evening; took the
sleeper at Rochester, and slept like the dead, having had very
insufficient sleep for two nights past. Was awakened early to get out at
Cleveland--much detained by a young woman who got into the dressing-room
before me, and stayed to make an elaborate toilet, keeping every one
else out. When at last she came out, I said to her, 'Well, madam, you
have taken your own time, to the inconvenience of everybody else. You
are the most selfish woman I ever travelled with.' Could get only a cup
of coffee and a roll at Cleveland--much confusion about cars--regained
mine, started, and found that I had left my trunk at Cleveland,
unchecked. Flew to conductor, who immediately took measures to have it
forwarded. Must wait all day at Shelby, in the most forlorn hole I ever
saw called a hotel. No parlor, a dark bedroom for me to stay in, a cold
hell without the fire, and a very hot one with it. Dirty bed not made
up, a sinister likeness of Schuyler Colfax hanging high on the wall, and
a print of the managers of Andy Johnson's impeachment. I--in distress
about my trunk--have telegraphed to Mansfield for the title of my
lecture and learn that it is 'Polite Society.' Must give it without the
manuscript, and must borrow a gown to give it in."
"_Minnesota in Winter_
"The twistings and turnings of a lecture trip have brought me twice, in
the present season, to Minnesota....
"To an Easterner, a daily walk or two is the first condition of health.
Here, the frost seemed to enter one's very bones, and to make locomotion
difficult.... Life at the hotel was mostly an anxious _tête-à-tête_ with
an air-tight stove. Sometimes you roasted before it, sometimes you
froze. As you crammed it with wood at night, you said, 'Will you, oh!
will you burn till morning?' Finally, on the coldest night of all, and
at that night's noon, you bade it farewell, on your way to the midnight
train, and wondered whether you should be likely to go further and fare
worse....
"After the lecture an informal sitting was held in the parlor of my
hostess, at which there was much talk of the clubs of Boston; 'If I
forget thee, O Jerusalem!' being the predominant tone in the minds of
those present. And at noon, away, away, in the caboose of a freight car,
to meet the passenger train at Owatonna, and so reach Minneapolis by
early evening.
"To travel in such a caboose is a somewhat rough experience. The dirt is
grimy and of long standing. The pictures nailed up on the boards are not
of an edifying description. The railroad employees who have admitted us
into their place of refuge wear dirty overalls, and eat their dinner out
of tin pails all afloat with hot coffee. One of my own sex keeps me in
countenance....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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