Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
History
Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910
Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Feminists -- United States -- Biography; Howe, Julia Ward, 1819-1910
The brutality of this couple was almost beyond belief. She was always so
gracious to fellow-travellers that they usually "made haste to be kind"
in return. She made it a point to converse with the intelligent-looking
people she met, either in the train or at the _tables d'hôte_ then still
in vogue. She talked with these chance acquaintances of their country or
their profession. It was never mere idle conversation.
This journey across Europe was undertaken solely for the pleasure of
seeing her sister, always her first object in visiting Europe. The bond
between them was very strong, spite of the wide difference of their
natures and the dissimilarity of their interests. Mrs. Terry was now
visiting her eldest daughter, Annie Crawford, married to Baron Eric von
Rabé and living at Lesnian in German Poland. Baron Eric had served in
the Franco-Prussian War with distinction, had been seriously wounded,
and obliged to retire from active service. Here was an entirely new
social atmosphere, the most conservative in Europe. Even before the
travellers arrived, the shadow of formality had fallen upon them; for
Mrs. Terry had written begging that they would arrive by "first-class"!
At that time the saying was, "Only princes, Americans, and fools travel
first-class," and our mother's rule had been to travel second. The
journey was already a great expense, and the added cost seemed to her
useless. Accordingly, she bought second-class tickets to a neighboring
station and first-class ones from there to Czerwinsk. This entailed
turning out in the middle of the night and waiting an hour for the
splendid express carrying the stiff and magnificently upholstered
first-class carriages, whose red plush seats and cushions were nothing
like so comfortable as the old grey, cloth-lined, second-class
carriages!
Still, the travellers arrived looking as proud as they could, wearing
their best frocks and bonnets. They travelled with the Englishwoman's
outfit. "Three suits. Hightum, tightum, and scrub." "Hightum" was for
any chance festivity, "tightum" for the _table d'hôte_, "scrub" for
everyday travelling. The question of the three degrees was anxiously
discussed on this occasion; it was finally decided that only "hightum"
would come up to the Von Rabé standard.
"_August 4._ Arrived at Czerwinsk, where sister L. and Baron von Rabé
met us. He kissed my hand in a courtly manner. My sister looks well, but
has had a hard time. We drove to Lesnian where Annie von R. and her
mother-in-law made us welcome."
"_August 9, Lesnian._ A quiet day at home, writing and some work. Tea
with Sister L. in the open air. Then went with Baron von Rabé to visit
his farm buildings, which are very extensive; not so nicely finished as
would be the case in America. We got many fleas in our clothes.... In
the evening the Baron began to dispute with me concerning the French and
the use and excellence of war, etc...."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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