Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
History
Julia Ward Howe, 1819-1910
Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Feminists -- United States -- Biography; Howe, Julia Ward, 1819-1910
A chief danced before them, very gracefully, threatening them with
his sword, with which he played very skilfully. They sometimes went on
their knees as if imploring him to spare them. He came twice to our tent
and waved the sword close to our heads, saying, '_Taih backsheesh_.' The
dance was like an Indian war-dance--the chief made a noise just like the
war-whoop of our Indians. The dance lasted half an hour. The chief got
his backsheesh and the whole troop departed. Lay down and rested in
peace, knowing that the dangerous part of our journey was over."
[88] A negro attendant.
"_In Camp in the Desert. January 11._ In the saddle by half past seven.
Rode round the site of ancient Jericho, of which nothing remains but
some portions of the king's highway. Ruins of a caravanserai, which is
said to be the inn where the good Samaritan lodged his patient. Stopped
for rest and luncheon, at Beth--and proceeded to Bethany, where we
visited the tomb of Lazarus. I did not go in--then rode round the Mount
of Olives and round the walls of Jerusalem, arriving at half past three
in the afternoon. I became very stiff in my knees, could hardly be
mounted on my horse, and suffered much pain from my knee and abrasions
of the skin caused by the saddle. Did not get down at the tomb of
Lazarus because I could not have descended the steps which led to it,
and could not have got on my horse again. When we reached our hotel, I
could not step without help, and my strength was quite exhausted. I say
to all tourists, avoid Cook's dreadful hurry, and to all women, avoid
Marsaba! This last day, we often met little troops of Bedouins
travelling on donkeys--sometimes carrying with them their cattle and
household goods. I saw a beautiful white and black lamb carried on a
donkey. Met three Bedouin horsemen with long spears. One of these
stretched his spear across the way almost touching my face, for a joke."
"_Jerusalem. Sunday, January 12._ English service. Communion,
interesting here where the rite was instituted. I was very thankful for
this interesting opportunity."
"_January 15._ Mission hospital and schools in the morning. Also
Saladin's horse. Wailing place of the Jews and some ancient synagogues.
In the afternoon walked to Gethsemane and ascended the Mount of Olives.
In the first-named place, sang one verse of our hymn, 'Go to dark
Gethsemane.' Got some flowers and olive leaves...."
After Jerusalem came Jaffa, where she delivered an address to a "circle"
at a private house. She says:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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