Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
The very difficulty of observation rendered this mode of research full
of excitement, and at the same time made my method of work very simple.
Against the sky, green, blue, or black feathers all appear black, and
the first two days my glasses helped but little. For several minutes I
would watch some tiny bird which might have been a yellow warbler had I
been three thousand miles farther north. After memorizing personal
characters, scrutinizing its flight and method of feeding, striving to
fix its individuality, I would secure the bird, and find in all
probability that it was a calliste, or tanager of brilliant plumage.
Tomorrow, if I were lucky, I might be able to tell off the numbers of
this species, to watch them and to know that I was watching them. But
recognition would not be by way of the cerulean or topaz or amethystine
hues of plumage, but by the slight idiosyncrasies of flirting tail or
wing or of general carriage.
Day by day, as I came to know better the jungle about me, I began to
perceive a phase which did not change. Even when the sun shone most
brightly, when the coolness of early morning had not yet passed, the
mood of the Amazon jungle remained. It was consistent, this low swampy
jungle, in its uniform, somber mystery. In spite of wholesale
exaggeration it was the dangers which came to mind. Of all places in the
world this was probably fullest of life, both in numbers and diversity.
Yet it was death--or the danger of death--which seemed in waiting,
always just concealed from view.
Beneath my tree I squatted silently. Just overhead the foliage might
have been almost northern. The finely cut leaves were like willow, and
at one side an oak, unusual but still an oak, reached out a thousand
thousand motionless leaves, breaking the glare into innumerable patches.
But ahead, the terrible interlacing of vines and thorny ropes, the
strangle-hold of serpentine lianas on every available trunk--all this
could be only tropic.
The ground glistened here and there with a film of black water which
revealed the swamp. Everywhere the mold and leaves of a hundred years
lay scattered, the last fallen still green. Many feet above, great fans
dangled, rayed fronds dry and crackling, fallen from high overhead, and
suspended, waiting for the interfering twigs and foliage to die in turn
and permit them to seek dissolution in the mold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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