Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
This was the background of our labors, our la_bor_atory as our English
visitors called it: cool in the daytime, cold at night, where one could
work as well as in the north, and where a morning's tramp usually
furnished material sufficient for a week of research. We came to know it
as the house of a thousand noises. The partitions, like those of all
tropical houses, extended only part way to the ceiling, so, as some one
has said, one enjoyed about the privacy of a goldfish. It would have
been a terrible place for a victim of insomnia; but when we were kept
awake by noises it was because we were interested in them. After a day's
hard work in the jungle, it must indeed be a bad conscience or a serious
physical ailment which keeps one awake a minute after one rolls up in
his blanket. Through all the months of varying tropical seasons we slept
as soundly as we should at home. I can do with five or six hours' sleep
the year round, and I begrudged even this in the tropical wonderland,
where my utmost efforts seemed to result in such slight inroads into our
tremendous zoölogical ignorance. At night I spent many wonderful hours,
leaning first out of one, then out of another window, or occasionally
going down the outside lattice stairway and strolling about the
compound.
No two nights were alike, although almost all were peaceful, with
hardly a breath of air stirring--just the cool, velvet touch of the
tropics, always free from any trace of the heat of the day. Whether dark
rich olive under crescent or starlight, or glowing silvery-gray in the
flood of the full moon, the forest, so quiet, so motionless all about
me, was always mysterious, always alluring. To the north, at the foot of
the hill, lay the dark surface of the great river, its waters one amber,
homogeneous flood, yet drawn from a thousand tributaries: hidden creeks
seeping through mossy jungles far beyond the Spanish border, brown
cascades filtering through gravel which gleamed with yellow gold and
sparkled with the light from uncut diamonds. And to the south rose the
wall of the jungle itself, symbol of all that is wild and untamed in
nature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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