Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
Amid a murmur of salaams we seated ourselves on grocery boxes while the
audience ranged itself behind. In the flickering light of torches I
recognized my friends one by one. There was Guiadeen who had brought in
the first ant-eater; he seated us. Then Persaïd of the prominent teeth,
who had tried to cheat me of a sixpence already paid for a mouse-opossum
with her young. Persaïd gave us only a hasty salaam, for he was a very
busy and fussy master of ceremonies. From behind came the constant
droning chant of the priest, lingeringly reading from a tattered Pali
volume, an oil torch dripping close to his white turban. His voice was
cracked, but his intonation was careful and his words well articulated.
The day before we had greeted him and chaffingly admonished him to marry
them well.
"God only could promise that," he had replied with a quick smile.
Others of the little village I knew: Rahim the milkman, and Mahabol,
with the head and beard of a Sikh on the legs of a Bengalee, and a thin
Bengalee at that. The audience which pressed close behind, looked and
smelled Calcutta and Darjeeling, and a homesickness which was pain came
over me, to be once more among the great Himalayas. The flickering torch
showed all my retinue threaded along the outer rim of onlookers; my
following who formed a veritable racial tower of Babel. There was Nupee
the Akawai, and Vingi the Machusi and Semmi the Wapiano--red Indians
from forest and savannah. Near them the broad, black African face of
little Mame, all eyes and mouth in the dim light. Then de Freitas the
Portuguese, and all the others of less certain lineage.
Meanwhile Persaïd had brought forth an oily, vile-smelling liquid with
which he coated a square yard of earth, and then with pounded maize and
rice he marked out a mystic figure--two squares and diagonals. As the
ceremony went on I lost much of the significance, and the coolies
themselves seemed very vague. They were all of low caste and preserved
more of the form than knowledge of the intricate rites.
We were at the groom's end of the absurd street, and before long Madhoo
himself appeared and was led a few steps away by his female tormentors.
This time they scrubbed and washed and rinsed him with water, and then
dressed him in a soft white waist-cloth draped coolie-wise. Then a long
tight-sleeved pink dress was pulled with much difficulty over his head.
Madhoo now looked like a woman dressed in a fashion long extinct. Next,
a pink turban was wound wonderfully about his head and he was led to one
side of the rice figure, where he sat down on a low stool.
Sam, my black factotum, sat close to me, translating when my slender
knowledge of Hindustani gave out. Suddenly he stopped abruptly in the
middle of a sentence. I saw that he was staring at the groom, the whites
of his eyes glistening in astonishment.
"Chief," he whispered at last, "see where my socks, my shoes!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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