Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
Direction was a constant source of trouble. Every three or four feet we
had to consult a compass, so confusing was the tangle. Sudden gullies
blocked us, a barren, half-open, sandy slope cheered us for a few yards.
It was nature's defense and excelled any barbed-wire entanglement I have
ever seen at the battle-front.
Once I came to a steep concealed gully. The razor-grass had been
particularly bad, giving like elastic to blows of the cutlass and then
flying back across my face. I was adrip with perspiration, panting in
the heat when I slid part way down the bank, and chopping away a solid
mass of huge elephant's ears, uncovered a tree-trunk bridging the swamp.
It brought to mind the bridge from Bad to Worse in the terrible Dubious
Land. Strange insects fled from the great leaves, lizards whisked past
me, hummingbirds whirred close to my face--the very sound seeming to
increase the heat. I slipped and fell off the log, splashing into the
hot water and warm mud, and sat in it for a while, too fagged to move.
Then the rest of the party came up and we clambered slowly to the top of
the next rise, and there caught sight of the jungle's edge, and it
seemed a trifle nearer and we went on with renewed courage. Shortly
afterwards two of us were resting in a patch of reeds while the third
worked some distance ahead, when there came a sudden low growl and rush.
Instinctively we rose on the instant, just in time to see a jaguar
swerve off on one side and disappear in a swish of swaying reed stems. I
have never known one of these animals to attack a man, and in this case
the jaguar had undoubtedly heard but not scented us, and the attack
ceased the moment we proved to be other than deer or similar prey. The
incident had come and passed too swiftly for thought, but now when we
realized that this was a bit of the real wild life of the jungle, our
enthusiasm never flagged, and we kept steadily at the heart-breaking
work, resting only now and then for our cuts to heal.
Then a government official who was our guest, took pity on us, and for
science' sake, obtained special dispensation. One morning we went out
and found in our compound several huge, blue-uniformed policemen, who
saluted and with real black magic, produced twenty convicts--negroes and
coolies--armed with cutlasses. So began the second phase of what we now
named the Convict Trail. We had already fought our painful way through a
half-mile of the terrible maze, and now we heartily welcomed this new
aid, whether good-natured murderers, and burglars, or like Sippy, Slorg
and Slith, mere thieves. We watched them strip to their black skins and
begin a real assault. On a front of ten to fifteen feet, the tangle
fairly dissolved before our eyes, and their great tough palms and soles
made little moment of the razor-grass and thorns. In one of the
slight-bodied coolies, whose task was to clear away the cut débris, I
recognized Ram Narine, whose trial had been the cause of my traveling
another trail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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