Dinant, a curious old town, the high limestone-rocks behind which
seems to be pushing it from off its narrow standing-ground into the
Meuse, has even bloodier reminiscences than Namur; but of these I
will not now speak. Between the two cities, at the most picturesque
part of the stream, and on the loftiest cliff which rises above the
stream, is the vast ruin of the old _titanic_ castle of Poilvache, the
once rather noisy home of the turbulent household of those terrible
brothers, known in chivalrous history as the “Four Sons of Aymon.”
During one of the few fine evenings of the last summer, I was looking
up at this height, from the opposite bank, while around me stood in
groups a number of those brilliant-eyed, soft-voiced, ready-witted
Walloons, who are said to be the descendants of a Roman legion, whose
members colonized the country and married the ladies in it! A Walloon
priest, or one at least who spoke the dialect perfectly, but who had a
strong Flemish accent when addressing to me an observation in French,
remained during the period of my observation close at my side. “Are
these people,” said I to him, “a contented people?” He beckoned to a
cheerful-looking old man, and assuming that he was contented with the
dispensation that had appointed him to be a laborer, inquired of him
which part of his labor he loved best? After pausing for a minute,
the old peasant replied in very fair French, “I think the sweetest
task I have is when I mow that meadow up at Bloquemont yonder, for
the wild thyme in it embalms the very air.” “But your winter-time,”
said I, “must be a dark and dreary time.” “Neither dark nor dreary,”
was the remark of a tidy woman, his wife, who was, at the moment, on
her knees, sewing up the ragged rents in the gaberdine of a Walloon
beggar--“Neither dark nor dreary. In winter-time, at home, we don’t
want light to get the children about us to teach them their catechism.”
The priest smiled. “And as for spring-time,” said her husband, “you
should be here to enjoy it; for the fields are then all flower, and
the sky is one song.” “There is poetry in their expressions,” said
I to the priest. “There is better than that,” said he, “there is
love in their hearts;” and, turning to the woman who was mending the
raiment of the passive mendicant, he asked her if she were not afraid
of infection. “Why should I fear?” was her remark. “I am doing but
little; Christ did more; He washed the feet of beggars; and we must
risk something, if we would gain Paradise.” The particular beggar to
whom she was thus extending most practical charity was by no means a
picturesque bedesman; but, not to be behind-hand in Χάρις toward him, I
expressed compassion for his lot. “My lot is not so deplorable,” said
he, uncovering his head; “I have God for my hope, and the charity of
humane people for my succor.” As he said this, my eye turned from him
to a shepherd who had just joined our group, and who was waiting to be
ferried over to the little village of Houx.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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