The most imposing of the thirty-four Buddhist retreats within the Diamond
Mountains is Yu-chom-sa. It may be approached from the western side of
the Keum-kang-san by climbing the rocky path of the Chang-an-sa gorge,
and crossing the watershed through the An-man-chai Pass, 4215 feet in
height. The descent is made by a rough and picturesque track through
deep woods to the cluster of temples upon the eastern face of the
range. Another way, which, after a short _détour_ from Chang-an-sa, is
an easier route, lies over the Pu-ti-chong Pass, 3700 feet in height;
after winding through some miles of forest, it drops directly upon a
track, which leads to the gates of the monastery. Each road starts from
Chang-an-sa, and the crossing of the mountains must be undertaken by all
who wish to visit the monasteries upon the eastern slopes. The journey in
either direction can be accomplished within eight hours; the difficulties
of the bed of the Chang-an-sa torrent render this route impassable to
horses, &c. Lightly-loaded ponies can be taken across the Pu-ti-chong.
The hire of coolies is recommended and one Korean dollar for each man is
the tariff.
The temples of Yu-chom-sa are very similar to those at Chang-an-sa.
They are, however, more numerous and more richly endowed. Before the
steps of the main temple there is a small granite pagoda, whose graceful
proportions give an element of dignity to the spacious courtyard upon
which the principal temples of the monastery abut. The altar of this
temple is adorned by a singular piece of wood-carving. Upon the roots of
an upturned tree sit or stand fifty-three diminutive figures of Buddha.
The monks tell an old-world legend of this strange structure. Many
centuries ago, fifty-three priests, who had journeyed from India to Korea
to introduce the precepts of Buddha into this ancient land, sat down by a
well beneath a spreading tree. Three dragons presently emerged from the
depths of the well and attacked the fifty-three, calling to their aid the
wind-dragon, who thereupon uprooted the tree. As the fight proceeded, the
priests managed to place an image of Buddha upon each root of the tree,
converting the whole into an altar, under whose influence the dragons
were forced back into their cavernous depths, when huge rocks were piled
into the well to shut them up. The monks then founded the monastery,
building the main temple above the remains of the vanquished dragons.
Upon each side of the fantastic altar-piece there is a carved design of
lotus leaves several feet in width and height; at the feet of an immense
image of the divine Buddha, golden and bejewelled, which graces the
centre of the shrine, are several magnificent bronze bowls of vast size,
weight, and antiquity. Blue and red silk-gauze draperies, serving the
purpose of a screen, hang from the massive beams in the roof.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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