The character of the native followers who accompany these journeys is
a matter of great importance to the future welfare of the traveller.
The proprietor of the Station Hotel, Seoul, secured me an excellent
boy. Shortly after entering my service, an American missionary, who had
been hankering after the lad for some time before he was brought to
me, suborned him. He deserted me upon the eve of my second expedition.
This trick is seldom perpetrated east of Suez between Europeans with
native servants; it is one of the few unwritten laws of the East and
observed everywhere. I reported the matter to the American Minister, Dr.
Allen, but the missionary kept the boy. Servants, grooms, and a coolie
of a sort, are all necessary upon these expeditions; one groom to each
horse is a wise allowance. Koreans like to send three horses to two men;
however, my division is the better. Europeans require a body-servant, who
will look after the personal effects of his master, and wait at table.
An interpreter, who can speak Chinese and some European language, either
German, French, or English, is invaluable. It is safer in each case to
take men who are not converts. A coolie is useful and gives a little
variety to the beasts of burden; he carries the camera, water-bottles,
and small impedimenta of the hour. A _chef_ is not really necessary—my
interpreter voluntarily served as cook. The interpreter in any journey
inland should be mounted; it saves considerable friction if the personal
servants be allowed to ride on the baggage ponies. Interpreters receive
from thirty to forty dollars a month; personal servants from eight to
twenty dollars a month; coolies from eight to ten dollars a month. The
hire for the horses, with whom the grooms are included, is a dollar a
day, half the amount paid down in advance upon the day of starting.
All calculations are made in Korean currency. The entire staff, except
the horses and grooms, is fed by the traveller. The interpreter takes
charge of the accounts. He will, if ordered, take down the Chinese and
Korean names of the villages, streams, lakes, valleys, plains, mountains
and roads which are passed. This is useful; the map of Korea is most
hopelessly out of date, and by forwarding these names to the Geographical
Society some little good is accomplished. The interpreter will pay the
coolies, grooms, and other servants in debased currency, and charge the
account in Mexican dollars, making a profit of seventy-five per cent.;
he is greedy and tenacious to the interests of his pocket, and he will
suggest that he requires a servant. For this remark he should be flogged.
He will muddle his accounts whenever he can; he will lose receipts if
he can find no other way of squeezing. He is apparently an innocent,
transparently honest, and devoted to the principles of sobriety and
virtue—unless there is an opportunity to go the usual path. Under every
condition he should be watched.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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