Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
The fifty monks of P’yo-un Sa were very friendly, and not impecunious.
One gave up to me his oven-like cell, but repaid himself for the
sacrifice by indulging in ceaseless staring. The wind bells of the
establishment and the big bell have a melody in their tones such as
I have rarely heard, and when at 4 A.M. bells of all sizes and tones
announced that “prayer is better than sleep,” there was nothing about
the sounds to jar on the pure freshness of morning. The monks are well
dressed and jolly, and have a well-to-do air which clashes with any
pretensions to asceticism. The rule of these monasteries is a strict
vegetarianism which allows neither milk nor eggs, and in the whole
region there are neither fowls nor domestic animals. Not to wound the
prejudices of my hosts, I lived on tea, rice, honey water, edible
pine nuts, and a most satisfying combination of pine nuts and honey.
After a light breakfast on these delicacies, the sub-abbot, took me to
see his grandmother, a very bright pleasing woman of eighty, who came
from Seoul thirteen years ago and built a house within the monastery
grounds, in order to die in its quiet blessedness. There I had to eat
a second ethereal meal, and the hospitable hostess forced on me a pot
of exquisite honey and a bag of pine nuts. These, the product of the
_Pinus pinea_, which grows profusely throughout the range, furnish an
important and nutritious article of monkish diet, and are exported in
quantities as a luxury. They are rich and very oily, and turn rancid
soon after being shelled. The honey is also locally produced. The
beehives, which usually stand two together in cavities in the rocks,
are hollow logs with clay covers mounted on blocks of wood or stone.
Leaving this friendly hostess and the seven nuns of the nunnery behind,
the sub-abbot showed me the direction in which to climb, for road there
is none, and at parting presented me with a fan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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