Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
The sudden revulsion of feeling which followed I cannot easily forget.
Mr. Clement Allen, our justly popular Consul, met me with a warm
welcome. I needed no proof of identity or anything else, he only
desired to know what he could do for me. My anxiety was not quite over,
for I had to make the humiliating confession that I needed money,
and immediately he took me to Messrs. Ferguson and Co., who transact
banking business, and asked them to let me have as much as I wanted. An
invitation to tiffin followed, and Lady O’Conor, and the wife of the
Spanish minister at Peking, who were staying at the Consulate, made up
a bundle of summer clothing for me, and my “deportation” enriched me
with valued friendships.
Returning in a very different frame of mind to the _Higo Maru_, I went
on in her in severe heat to the mouth of the Peiho River in sight of
the Taku forts, and after rolling on its muddy surges for two days,
proceeded to Newchwang in Manchuria, reaching the mouth of the Liau
River in five days from Chemulpo. Rain was falling, and a more hideous
and disastrous-looking country than the voyage of two hours up to the
port revealed, I never saw. The Liau, which has a tremendous tide and
strong current, and is thick with yellow mud, is at high water nearly
on a level with the adjacent flats, of which one sees little, except
some mud forts on the left bank of the river, which are said to be
heavily armed with Krupp guns, and an expanse of mud and reeds.
Of the mud-built Chinese city of Ying-tzŭ (Military Camp), known as
Newchwang, though the real Newchwang is a derelict port 30 miles up
the Liau, nothing can be seen above the mud bank but the curved, tiled
roofs of _yamens_ and temples, though it is a city of 60,000 souls,
the growth of its population having kept pace with its rapid advance
in commercial importance since it was opened to foreign trade in 1860.
Several British steamers with big Chinese characters on their sides
were at anchor in the tideway, and the river sides were closely fringed
with up-river boats and sea-going junks, of various picturesque builds
and colors, from Southern China, steamers and junks alike waiting not
only for cargoes of the small beans for which Manchuria is famous, but
for the pressed bean cake which is exported in enormous quantities to
fertilize the sugar plantations and hungry fields of South China.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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