Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
Mukden stands at an altitude of 160 feet above the sea, in Lat. 41° 51′
N. and Long. 123° 37′ E., in the centre of an immense alluvial plain,
bearing superb crops and liberally sprinkled with farming villages
embowered in wood, a wavy line of low blue hills at a great distance
limiting the horizon. It is 3 miles from the Hun-ho, a tributary of
the Liau, and within its outer wall idles along the silvery Siao-ho
or “small river,” with a long Bund affording a delightful promenade
and an airy position for a number of handsome houses, the residences
of missionaries and mandarins, with stately outer and inner gates,
through which glimpses are obtained of gardens and flowering plants
and pots. This city of 260,000 inhabitants, owing to its connection
with the reigning dynasty, is the second city officially in the empire,
and the Peking “boards” with one exception are nominally duplicated
there. Hence it not only has an army of Chinese and Tartar officials of
all grades, but a large resident population of retired and expectant
mandarins, living in handsome houses and making a great display in the
streets. There is an incessant movement of mule carts, the cabs of
Mukden, with their superb animals and their blue canopies covering both
mule and driver, official mule carts driven at a trot, with four or
more outriders with white hats and red plumes, private carts belonging
to young mandarin swells, who give daily entertainments at a restaurant
on the Bund, mandarins on horseback with runners clearing the way,
carts waiting for “lotus viewers,” tall, “big-footed” women promenading
with their children, their hair arranged in loops on silver frames and
decorated with flowers, hospital patients on stretchers and in chairs,
men selling melons and candies, and beggars who by blowing through a
leaf imitate the cry of nearly every bird. Then in the summer evenings,
when the mercury has fallen to 80°, the servants of rich men bring out
splendid ponies and mules and walk them on the Bund, and there come
the crowds to stare at the foreigners and hang round their gates. The
presence of well-dressed women is a feature rare in the East. Up to the
war people were polite and friendly, but progress was difficult and the
smell of garlic strong. At night the dogs bark, guns are fired, drums
and gongs are beaten, and the clappers of the watchmen rival each other
in making night hideous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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