Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
The first view of Wladivostok (“Possession of the East”) is very
striking, although the vandalism of its builders has deprived it
of its naturally artistic background of wood. Otherwise the purple
tone of the land and the blue crystal of the water reminded me of
some of our Nova Scotian harbors. There is nothing Asiatic about the
aspect of this Pacific capital, and indeed it is rather Transatlantic
than European. Seated on a deeply embayed and apparently landlocked
harbor, along the shores of which it straggles for more than 3 miles,
climbing audaciously up the barren sides of denuded hills, irregular,
treeless-lofty buildings with bold fronts, Government House, “Kuntz
and Albers,” the glittering domes of a Greek cathedral, a Lutheran
church, Government Administrative Offices, the Admiralty, the Arsenal,
the Cadet School, the Naval Club, an Emigrant Home, and the grand and
solid terminus and offices of the Siberian Railway, rising out of an
irregularity which is not picturesque, attract and hold the voyager’s
attention.
[Illustration: WLADIVOSTOK.]
Requesting to be taken at once to the Customs, the bewildered air of
astonishment with which my request was met informed me that Wladivostok
had up to that time been a free port, and that I was at liberty to
land unquestioned. After thumping about for some time among a number
of stout _sampans_ in the midst of an unspeakable Babel, I was hauled
on shore by a number of laughing, shouting, dirty Korean youths, who,
after exchanging pretty hard blows with each other for my coveted
possessions, shouldered them and ran off with them in different
directions, leaving me stranded with the tripod of my camera, to which
I had clung desperately in the _mêlée_. There were droskies not far
off, and four or five Koreans got hold of me, one dragging me towards
one vehicle, others to another, yelling Korean into my ears, till a
Cossack policeman came and thumped them into order. There were hundreds
of them on the wharf, and except that they were noisier and more
aggressive, it was like landing at Chemulpo. Getting into a drosky, I
said, “Golden Horn Hotel,” in my most distinct English, then “Hôtel
Corne d’or,” in my most distinct French. The _moujik_ nodded and
grinned out of his fur hood, and started at a gallop in the opposite
direction! I clutched him, and made emphatic signs, speech being
useless, and he turned and galloped in a right direction, but stopped
at the disreputable doorway of one of the lowest of the many drinking
saloons with which Wladivostok is infested.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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