Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
Mr. Smith is a _persona grata_ in Wladivostok, and very much so with
the Governor, who consequently received me with much friendliness,
and asked me to let him know my plans. I explained what I wanted to
do, subject to his approval, and presented my credentials, which
were of the best. He said that he quite approved of my project, and
would do anything he could to help me, and wrote on the spot a letter
to the Frontier Commissioner, but he added that the disorganized
and undisciplined state of the Chinese army near the frontier might
render some modification of my plan necessary, as I afterwards found.
The Governor and his wife speak excellent English, and the social
intercourse which I had with them afterwards was most agreeable and
instructive.
During the afternoon Mr. Smith returned, and saying that he and his
wife could not endure my staying in that hotel, took me away to his
home high up on a steep hillside, with a glorious view of the city
and harbor, and of which it is difficult to say whether the sunshine
were brighter within or without. Under such propitious circumstances
my two visits became full of sunny memories, and I may be pardoned if
I see Wladivostok a little _couleur de rose_; for the extraordinary
kindness which dogs and shadows the traveller in the Far East were met
with there in perfection, and where I was received by strangers I left
highly valued friends.
After a snowstorm splendid weather set in. The snow prevented dust
blasts, the ordinary drawback of an Eastern Siberian winter, the skies
were brilliant and unclouded, the sunsets carnivals of color, the air
exhilarating, the mercury at night averaging 20°, there was light
without heat, the main road was full of sleighs going at a gallop,
their bells making low music, all that is unsightly was hidden, and
this weather continued for five weeks!
“The Possession of the East” is nothing if not military and naval.
Forts, earthworks, at which it is prudent not to look too long or
intently, great military hospitals, huge red brick barracks in every
direction, offices of military administration, squads of soldiers in
brown ulsters and peaked _pashaliks_, carrying pickaxes or spades
on their shoulders,[31] sappers with their tools, in small parties,
officers, mostly with portfolios or despatch boxes under their arms,
dashing about in sleighs, and the prohibition of photography, all
indicate its fortress character. Certainly two out of every three
people in the streets are in uniform, and the Cossack police, who
abound, are practically soldiers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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