Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
The Chief of Police was a welcome visitor. The Koreans had nothing
to fear, unless his quick scent discerned an insanitary odor or his
eye an unwarrantable garbage heap! The farmyards were clean and well
swept, and the domestic animals were lodged in neat sheds. The houses,
of strictly Korean architecture, were large, with five or six rooms,
carefully thatched, and very neat within, abounding in such comforts
and plenishings as would only be dreamed of by mandarins at home. It
is insisted on, however, that, instead of the flues which heat the
floors vomiting forth their smoke through many blackened apertures in
the walls, they shall unite in sending it heavenwards through a hollow
tree trunk placed at a short distance from the house. This, and cleanly
surroundings in the interests of sanitation, are the only restrictions
on their Korean habits. The clothing and dwellings are the same as in
Korea, and the “topknot” flourishes.
A little farther on there is the large village of Yantchihe, with
a neat schoolhouse, in which Russian and Korean pupils sit side by
side at their lessons, a Greek church, singularly rich in internal
decorations, and a priest’s house adjoining. This is a very prosperous
village. In the neat police station a Korean sergeant wrote down my
requirements and sent off a smart Korean policeman in search of an
interpreter. Four hundred Koreans in this neighborhood have conformed
to the Greek Church and have received baptism. On asking the priest,
who was more picturesque than cultivated, and whose large young family
seemed oppressively large for the house, what sort of Christians they
made, he replied suggestively that they had “a great deal to learn,”
and that there would be “more hope for the next generation.”
I am not clear in my own mind as to the cause of the success which has
attended “missionary effort” at Yantchihe and elsewhere. The statements
I received on the subject differed widely, and in most cases were made
hesitatingly, as if my informants were not sure of their ground. My
impression is that while Russia is tolerant of devil-worship, or any
other worship which is not subversive of the externals of morality,
“conformity” is required to obtain for the Korean alien those blessings
which belong to naturalization as a Russian subject.
Preparations being completed for travelling to the Korean frontier,
and into Korea as far as Kyöng-heung, a town which a Trade Convention
in 1888 opened to the residence of Russian subjects in the hope
of creating a market there after the style of Kiachta, I had an
interview with Mr. Matunin, the Frontier Commissioner, who gave me
a very unpleasant account of insecurity on the frontier owing to the
lawlessness of the Chinese troops, and an introduction to the Governor
of Kyöng-heung.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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