Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
The latest English papers had stated that “Russia has lately massed
5,000 men on the Korean frontier, and 4,000 at Hun-chun.” It is not
desirable to make any inquiries about the positions and numbers of
Russian troops, and I had prudently abstained from asking questions,
and had looked forward with interest to seeing a great display of
military force. This hut is the military post of Krasnoye Celo, and
the “army” of Russia “massed on her Korean frontier” consisted of 15
men and a corporal, the officer being required to endure the isolation
of the position for six months, and the privates for one. The roars of
laughter which greeted the English statement were not complimentary to
newspaper accuracy.
The corporal’s small room was of no particular shape, and was furnished
with only a deal chair and small table, and a big earthen jar of
water, but it was well-warmed, and had an iron camp-bed in a recess
with a wire-wove mattress, much broken and “sagging,” the sharp points
of the broken wires sticking up in several places through the one rug
with which I attempted to mollify their asperities. This recess, which
just contained the bed, was curtained off for me, and the corporal,
Mr. Heidemann, and three Korean headmen lay closely packed on the
floor. The corporal, glad to have people to talk with, talked more than
half the night, and began again before daybreak. We supped on barrack
fare--black bread, barley brose, and tea, with the addition of a little
_kwass_, a very slightly fermented drink, made from black bread,
raisins, sugar, and a little _vodka_, _schnaps_ and _vodka_ containing
40 per cent. of alcohol. At 9 P.M. I was surprised and delighted with
the noble strains of a Greek Litany, chanted in well-balanced parts
from the barrack-room, the evening worship of the Cossacks.
My last sunset view of the Tu-men was of a sheet of ice. The headmen of
the Korean villages of Sajorni and Krasnoe, who were in council till
near midnight, thought it was impossible to get across, and they said
that the ferryboat was drawn ashore and was frozen in for the winter,
and that two Russian Commissioners and a General, after waiting for
three days, had left the day before, having failed. However, yielding
to my urgency, they set all the able-bodied men of Sajorni to work at 2
A.M. to dig the boat out, and by 7 she had moved some yards towards the
river, which, however, was still a sheet of ice. Later, the corporal
sent 14 of his men to help the Koreans, laughingly saying that I had
the “Whole Russian frontier army to get me across.” At 9 word came
that the boat was nearly afloat, and we started, on horseback, with
two baggage ponies, and rode a mile over the hills and through the
prosperous Korean village of Sajorni, down to a dazzling expanse of
sand through which the Tu-men flows to the sea, there 10 miles off.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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