Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
Wind and heavy rain which raised the river forbade all locomotion
until the following evening, when we crossed the Han and reached the
Yöng-chhun ferry by a pretty road through a village and a wood, most
attractive country, with many novelties in its flora. At the ferry a
still expanse of the Han is over 10 feet deep, but the roar of another
rapid is heard immediately above. A double avenue of noble elms with
fine turf underneath them leads to the town, a magistracy of 1,500
people, a quiet market-place without shops, situated in a rich farming
basin of alluvial soil, covered in May with heavy crops of barley and
wheat, among which were fields hillocked for melons.
The magistracy buildings are large and rambling, with what has been
a fine entrance gate, with a drum and other instruments of aural
torture for making the deafening din with which the _yamen_ is closed
and opened at sunrise and sunset. There are many stone tablets (not
spontaneously erected) to worthy officials, a large enclosure in which
sacrifices are offered to “Heaven” (probably to the Spirits of the
Land), a Confucian temple, and a king’s pavilion, all very squalid and
ruinous.
A crowd not altogether polite followed us to the _yamen_, where I
hoped that some information regarding an overland route to the Diamond
Mountain might be obtained. On entering the _yamen_ precincts the
underling officials were most insolent, and it was only after enduring
their unpleasant behavior for some time that we were conducted to a
squalid inner room, where a deputy-mandarin sat on the floor with
a smoking apparatus beside him, a man with a scornful and sinister
physiognomy, who took not the slightest notice of us, and when he
deigned to speak gave curt replies through an underling, while we stood
outside the entrance, withstanding with difficulty the pressure of the
crowd, which had surged in after us, private interviews being rare in
the East. This was my last visit to a Korean _yamen_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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