Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
When we reached the forks at Ma-chai, the boatmen, who were tired of
the trip, wanted to go back, but eventually they were induced to fulfil
their contract, and we entered the north branch of the Han on a cool,
glorious afternoon, following on a night and morning of wind and rain.
This north branch also rises in the Keum-kang San or Diamond Mountain
in the province of Kong-wön, and after a turbulent course of about
98 miles unites with the southern and larger branch of the Han about
two days’ journey from Seoul. For a considerable distance the country
which it drains is populous and well cultivated, and the hills of its
higher reaches provide much of the timber which is used in Seoul, as
well as a large proportion of the firewood and charcoal. The timber is
made up into very peculiar rafts, which come down at high water, but
even then are frequently demolished in the rapids. The river widens out
above Ma-chai, and for a considerable distance has an average breadth
of 440 yards, but as a rule it is shallow, and its bottom dangerously
rocky, and it has incessant rapids full of jagged rocks, some of which
are very dangerous, and so “ugly” that as I went up them I was truly
glad that I had not to descend them. Many a long, hard tug and broken
hawser we had, but succeeded in hauling the _sampan_ 7 miles above the
limit of low water navigation, which is the same distance from the
termination of boat traffic at high water. I estimate the distance
from Ma-chai to Ut-Kiri, where further progress was stopped by an
insurmountable rapid, at 76 miles, which took nine days, though Kim and
his man, anxious to go home, worked much harder than on our earlier
trip.
For the first few days there are villages every quarter of a mile,
and lateral and parallel valleys, then rich in clean crops of barley
and wheat. The river villages are surrounded by groves of Spanish
chestnut, mulberry, cherry, persimmons, and weeping willows. There are
deep crateriform cavities, now full of trees and abundant vegetation.
The hills are covered with oak scrub, affording cover for tigers,
which appear to abound. The characteristics of the villages and the
agriculture hardly vary from those on the south branch, except that the
potato is more extensively grown. The absence of provincial and local
peculiarities is a feature of Korea. An alley in Seoul may serve for a
village street anywhere else.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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