Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the countryBird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
History
Korea and her neighbors: A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)
Korea -- Description and travel
In most inns rice, eggs, vegetables, and a few Korean dainties, such
as soup, vermicelli, dried seaweed, and a paste made of flour, sugar,
and oil, can be procured, but tea never, and the position of the well,
which frequently receives the soakage of the courtyard, precludes a
careful traveller from drinking aught but boiled water. At the proper
seasons chickens can be purchased for about 4d. each, and pheasants
for less. Dog meat is for sale frequently in the spring, and pork
occasionally.
The charges at Korean inns are ridiculously low. Nothing is charged for
the room with its glim and hot floor, but as I took nothing for “the
good of the house,” I paid 100 _cash_ per night, and the same for my
room at the midday halt, which gave complete satisfaction. Travellers
who eat three meals a day spend, including the trifling gratuities,
from 200 to 300 _cash_ per diem. Millet takes the place of rice in the
northern inns.
The Korean inn is not noisy unless wine is flowing freely, and even
then the noise subsides early. The fighting of the ponies, and the
shouts and execrations with which the _mapu_ pacify them, are the chief
disturbances till daylight comes and the wayfarers move on. Travelling
after dark is contrary to Korean custom.
From this slight sketch, the shadows of which will bear frequent and
much intensifying, it will be seen that Korean travelling has a very
seamy side, that it is entirely unsuited to the “globe trotter,” and
that even the specialist may do well to count the cost before embarking
upon it.
To me the curse of the Korean inn is the ill-bred and unmanageable
curiosity of the people, specially of the women. A European woman had
not been seen on any part of the journey, and I suffered accordingly.
Sar-pang Kori may serve as a specimen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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