Seen from the crest of the Vatican ridge, the Roman Campagna stretches
as a plain from the base of the steep front of the Apennines to the
coast of the Mediterranean--a distance of some thirty English miles.
To the north it is bounded by the ridge of Soracte and the nearer
heights of Bracciano and Tolfa. To the south it runs up to the base
of the Alban Hills and sweeps between them and the sea onwards till
it merges into the flat and pestilential Maremma. Even from such a
commanding point of view, however, this apparent plain can be seen to
be far from having an even surface. Not only does it slope upward
and inland from the coast, until, where it abuts against the foot of
the hills, it has reached heights of 600 or 800 feet, but when looked
at more closely it presents a somewhat diversified topography. Though
the heights and hollows never vary much from the general average
level, they include not only smooth, grassy ridges but also low cliffs
that run along the declivities, rising sometimes into craggy scarps;
likewise narrow gullies and ravines with steep walls, as well as wide,
open, smooth-sided valleys. The surface is for the most part clothed
with pasture; yet the brown and yellow rock that forms most of the
plain protrudes in many places, not only where it has been laid bare by
natural causes, but where it has been artificially cut away or scooped
into subterranean recesses.
Such a varied form of ground was eminently favourable for human
settlement. The earliest races could find or make rock-shelters almost
anywhere. The fertility of the soil afforded to their successors good
pasturage and fields for tillage, while the hillocks, girt round with
cliffs, and the flat-topped ridges, shelving precipitously to lower
ground, offered excellent sites for fortification and defence. Owing
to the porous nature of the ground, much of the rain sinks at once
beneath the surface, instead of flowing off in brooks. Hence many of
the valleys are usually dry, unless in wet seasons. But water can
be obtained all over the district by sinking wells, and that this
source of supply has been in use from a remote period and to an almost
incredible extent, has been strikingly shown by the recent excavations
beneath the pavements of the Roman Forum. It would be difficult to
find anywhere a form of ground which shows better the influence of
geological structure upon the early fortunes of a people.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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