II. The UPLANDS of the British Isles consist of undulating plains or
plateaux which lie from 1000 to more than 2000 feet above the sea.
Seen from a distance, they look like ranges of hill or mountain, but
without that variety of peak and crest which a true mountain outline
would present. Though they may rise steeply out of the lower grounds,
we have only to climb to their summit to find ourselves at the edge of
a wide rolling platform, which may stretch for leagues without ever
rising into any sharp prominence, or departing from the same monotony
of moorland. Yet if we attempt to cross this seemingly continuous
tableland, we find our progress barred by many valleys which, deep sunk
beneath the general level, divide the plateau into separate blocks or
ridges.
The surface of these uplands is for the most part treeless and even
bushless. Where not covered with peat-moss, it is clothed with bent
or with heather, kept short and green by periodical burning in the
springtime. Herds of cattle and flocks of sheep wander over the
pastures, but, save the stone fences, there is little other visible
trace of human occupation. It is in the little hollows that lead down
into the main valleys, and in these valleys themselves, that trees
make their appearance, first in scattered saplings of birch, alder
or mountain-ash, and then in thicker copsewoods or in artificial
plantations of fir and larch. In these sheltered depressions, the farms
and villages of the region have been planted, and cultivation has
been slowly pushed upward on the slopes of the fells. Thus the larger
part of the area of the uplands is uninhabited, the population being
restricted to the more or less sheltered 'hopes,' hollows, dales, and
valleys.
This type of scenery presents many local varieties, according to the
geological structure of the ground. Where the rocks have been but
little disturbed, the sides of the valleys display a succession of
parallel bars of stone with intervening grassy slopes, such as may be
seen among the moors of the East Riding, or in the dales of the Pennine
Chain. Where, on the other hand, the rocks have been much compressed
and pushed over each other by powerful movements of the terrestrial
crust, their erosion has given rise to no regular topography, but they
decay into rounded forms covered with heath and herbage, or breaking
here and there into rocky scarps, as in Wales and southern Scotland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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