In the northern parts of Wales where a group of ancient volcanic rocks
has been laid bare by the stupendous denudation of the surface, a
small tract of truly highland scenery has been carved out in Cader
Idris, Arenig, Snowdon, and the surrounding heights in Caernarvonshire
and Merionethshire. Another isolated area of volcanic hills forms
the picturesque district of the Lakes. But it is in Scotland that
this type is displayed on the largest scale and in the most varied
diversity. The Scottish Highlands are built up of the most ancient
rocks of the British Islands, and possess a geological structure of
extraordinary complexity. They include a vast variety of materials
which, rising to the highest elevations in the country, and exposed to
the severest climate, have impressed their individual characters upon
the landscapes. Thus, in the north-west, where the simplest grouping
of rocks is to be seen, masses of horizontal dark-red sandstone have
been carved into the huge pyramids that form so singular a feature
in the scenery of Ross and Sutherland (p. 71). In the central and
south-western counties, gleaming white cones show where the quartzites
rise to the surface. In the eastern Grampians, high craggy moors,
encircled with stupendous corries and precipices, mark the sites of
the bosses of granite. Among the Western Isles, dark splintered crests
and pinnacles point out the position of the gabbros. Perhaps the most
rugged ground is to be seen among the mica-schists, which combine a
wonderful array of pointed peak and notched ridge, with tumultuous
masses of craggy declivity.
In the eastern Grampians, the mountains include broad tracts of
undulating moorland, which, though lying along the summits of the
chain, are level enough to be capable of conversion into racecourses.
These hills are separated from the sea by a tract of lowland, and lie
thus entirely inland. On the west side of the Highlands, however,
the ground between the straths and glens mounts upward into narrow
ridges, not infrequently sharpened into knife-edged crests, while the
whole aspect of the landscape is rugged, rocky, and bare. Land and sea
appear there to be inextricably intermingled. Islands, peninsulas, and
promontories are penetrated or surrounded by sounds and sea-lochs, in
such a curious way that even in what might be thought to be the very
heart of the country, the tides of the Atlantic are found to ebb and
flow into remote and solitary glens. The mountains plunge abruptly into
the salt water, and for the most part only along the valley-bottoms are
little strips of level land to be seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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